Draught horse HE
Palatinate Pinot Noirs in Burgundian style
11 July 2015
Werner Elflein
Image: Pixabay“Prago”, “Arthos”, “Melandor”. This is how winemaker Uli Metzger from Grünstadt-Asselheim calls his three best Pinot Noirs. Their first vintage, 2012, is now sold out at the winery. Not least because “Arthos” was one of the winning wines at the Vinum German Red Wine Award last year. The young 2013s are already tasting very promising and even indicate an increase compared to the previous year. However, there is not much room for improvement. Uli Metzger's consultant knows that, too.
For Hans Erich Dausch, the three Pinot Noirs are in the same league as the best red wines of Burgundy. Dausch can judge that. He knows Burgundy like the back of his hand and is a welcome guest at Romanée-Conti. In his Palatinate homeland, he is better known by his abbreviation HE than by his civil name.
HE has been making his own Pinot Noirs since 2006. The first vintages at Friedrich Becker in Schweigen-Rechtenbach, who produced the highest-rated Pinot Noir in the German Gault-Millau wine guide seven times in a row. Today in the cellar of the Knipser winery in Laumersheim.
There has never been any doubt about HE's stylistic orientation. His highly elegant Pinot Noirs consistently seem almost more Burgundian than many real Burgundies. A style that, as our blind tasting showed, is becoming more and more prevalent among his Palatinate clients as well.
We tasted wines from the 2012 vintage. Of course from HE himself, but also from the wineries he is currently advising. Hörner, Knipser, Bernhard Koch, Metzger. Also from Ökonomierat Rebholz, where we expected an exciting comparison between father Hansjörg (Siebeldingen Im Sonnenschein) and his sons (Arzheim Rosenberg) advised by HE. Unfortunately, the cork threw a spanner in the works.
The results speak for themselves. Each of the wineries listed is already a top player or – in case of Thommy Hörner and the Rebholz twins – has what it takes in medium term.
In long term, however, it remains to be seen whether the use of barriques, which is anything but restrained, is the right recipe for every client. We believe that especially the fine Pinot Noirs from less chalky and more loessy soils should benefit more from less new wood.
The wines at a glance
HE Weine – Hans Erich Dausch
Rheinstraße 3
76829 Landau
Germany
Phone: +49 170 7748752
Internet: www.he-weine.de
E‑mail: info@he-weine.de
2012 Eschbach Hasen Pinot Noir Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
13.5 % vol alcohol
⛬
2012 Pinot Noir Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
13.5 % vol alcohol
⛬
2012 Herrschaftswingert Pinot Noir Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
13.5 % vol alcohol
⛬
Hörner
Hainbachhof
76879 Hochstadt
Germany
Phone: +49 6347 8814
Fax: +49 6347 7861
Internet: www.hoerner-wein.de
E‑mail: thomas@hoerner-wein.de
2012 Spätburgunder “Widder” Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5041030 18 14 • 13 % vol alcohol
Knipser
Hauptstraße 47-49
67229 Laumersheim
Germany
Phone: +49 6238 742
Fax: +49 6238 4377
Internet: www.weingut-knipser.de
E‑mail: mail@weingut-knipser.de
2012 Spätburgunder Reserve Qualitätswein trocken
VDP.GUTSWEIN®
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5128029 33 14 • 13.5 % vol alcohol
2012 Spätburgunder Reserve du Patron Qualitätswein trocken
VDP.GUTSWEIN®
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5128029 34 14 • 13 % vol alcohol
2012 Dirmstein Mandelpfad Spätburgunder Qualitätswein trocken
VDP.GROSSE LAGE® / VDP.GROSSES GEWÄCHS®
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5128029 37 14 • 13 % vol alcohol
2012 Großkarlbach Burgweg Spätburgunder Qualitätswein trocken
VDP.GROSSE LAGE® / VDP.GROSSES GEWÄCHS®
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5128029 35 14 • 13 % vol alcohol
2012 Laumersheim Kirschgarten Spätburgunder Qualitätswein trocken
VDP.GROSSE LAGE® / VDP.GROSSES GEWÄCHS®
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5128029 36 14 • 13 % vol alcohol
Bernhard Koch
Weinstraße 1
76835 Hainfeld
Germany
Phone: +49 6323 2728
Fax: +49 6323 7577
Internet: www.weingut-koch.com
E‑mail: info@weingut-koch.com
2012 Flemlingen Herrenbuckel Pinot Noir Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5035176 75 14 • 13 % vol alcohol
2012 Hainfeld Kirchenstück Pinot Noir Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5035176 76 14 • 13.5 % vol alcohol
2012 Hainfeld Letten Pinot Noir Grande Réserve Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5035176 79 14 • 13.5 % vol alcohol
2012 Hainfeld Letten Pinot Noir Réserve Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5035176 77 14 • 13.5 % vol alcohol
2012 Pinot Noir Réserve HE Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5035176 78 14 • 13.5 % vol alcohol
Uli Metzger
Langgasse 34
67269 Grünstadt
Germany
Phone: +49 6359 5335
Fax: +49 6359 83218
Internet: www.wein-metzger.de
E‑mail: info@wein-metzger.de
2012 “Arthos” Pinot Noir Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5119040 44 14 • 13.5 % vol alcohol
2012 “Melandor” Pinot Noir Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5119040 45 14 • 13.5 % vol alcohol
2012 “Prago” Pinot Noir Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5119040 43 14 • 13.5 % vol alcohol
Ökonomierat Rebholz
Weinstraße 54
76833 Siebeldingen
Germany
Phone: +49 6345 3439
Fax: +49 6345 7954
Internet: www.oekonomierat-rebholz.com
E‑mail: wein@oekonomierat-rebholz.de
2012 Arzheim Rosenberg Spätburgunder Qualitätswein trocken
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5069105 95 14 • 13.5 % vol alcohol
2012 Siebeldingen Im Sonnenschein Spätburgunder Qualitätswein trocken
VDP.GROSSE LAGE® / VDP.GROSSES GEWÄCHS®
Germany
Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5069105 30 14 • 13 % vol alcohol
Symbols
| 🯅 | The rating of the wine is based on a single taster. The taster is named in the context of the rating. The tasting was either open or blind. In case of a blind tasting, it is explicitly labelled as such. |
| 🯅🯅 | The rating of the wine is based on two tasters. The tasters are named in the context of the rating. The tasting was carried out according to the four-eyes principle, in which both tasters agree on a joint rating. |
| 🯅🯅🯅 | The rating is based on a tasting by our jury and indicates the Mean value calculated by us from the individual ratings of the tasters. Our mean value is based on the median. |
| ⚖ | The wine was evaluated in a blind tasting. We have strict rules for blind tastings. The tasters do not receive any information that would allow them to identify the wines. The tasters are only given access to further information that goes beyond the subject matter if it is absolutely necessary for understanding the wines. |
| 🕓 | We only had limited time to taste the wine - typically during an open tasting event, such as a wine fair. It was therefore not possible to observe the development of the wine in the glass over a longer period of time. The informative value of our rating may therefore be limited under certain circumstances. |
| ⛬ | The wine was tasted as a barrel sample or before an official test number (Amtliche Prüfungsnummer or Staatliche Prüfnummer) was issued. We only accept samples of unfilled wines in exceptional cases, and then only if we can assume sufficient stability in the bottle for a period of at least three months. |
| ▲ | During our tasting, the wine showed conspicuous sensory characteristics. This does not necessarily have to be a wine fault. We categorise the quality and quantity of the abnormality and include it in the rating. Wine faults such as cork taint or an atypical ageing generally lead to a complete rejection. |
| Tastings that refer to the same bottle of a wine are visually summarised by a dotted line. |
