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Typicality trumps handwriting

Stefan Steinmetz: From insider tip to top producer

30 July 2021
Werner Elflein

typizitaet-schlaegt-handschrift.jpgPhoto: weinfreaks.de
View of the Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr and parts of the Brauneberg Juffer

The thousand injuries of Fortunato I had borne as I best could, but when he ventured upon insult I vowed revenge. You, who so well know the nature of my soul, will not suppose, however, that I gave utterance to a threat. At length I would be avenged; this was a point definitively settled — but the very definitiveness with which it was resolved precluded the idea of risk.

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I must not only punish but punish with impunity. A wrong is unredressed when retribution overtakes its redresser. It is equally unredressed when the avenger fails to make himself felt as such to him who has done the wrong. It must be understood that neither by word nor deed had I given Fortunato cause to doubt my good will. I continued, as was my wont, to smile in his face, and he did not perceive that my smile now was at the thought of his immolation.

The wines at a glance

Symbols
The rating of the wine reflects the mean value from a tasting by our jury.
The wine was evaluated in a blind tasting.
The wine was tasted as a barrel sample or before an official test number (Amtliche Prüfungsnummer or Staatliche Prüfnummer) was issued.
The wine exhibited a sensory abnormality during our tasting. This does not necessarily have to be a qualitative defect or a wine fault. In the case of a qualitative impairment, a devaluation or rejection was made depending on the type and severity of the defect or wine fault.

Steinmetz & Gerlach

Germany
– discontinued –

All wines of the producer at weinfreaks.de

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 “Liquid Fossil” Kattenes Steinchen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 46 19 • 13.5 % alcohol

17

Tasted on 23 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Bright yellow with sparkling reflexes. Mineral nose with subtle aromas of yellow stone fruit and slate heated by the sun. Only after a good two seconds on the tongue does the power inherent in the wine emerge. However, the alcohol, which is certainly noticeable, is well integrated. Sensory extremely dry, but very balanced and despite its puristic character with charm. Challenging, but not disturbing. A good accompaniment to food and here even an alternative to a (high class) Chardonnay. Excellent length and sustainability.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Lehmen Ausoniusstein Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 33 19 • 13.5 % alcohol

18.5

Tasted on 1 October 2019 by Werner Elflein

Pure white gold with golden yellow reflections. Complex, subtly fruity and floral bouquet with fine aromas of strawberry, strawberry yoghurt, rhubarb and a hint of vanilla. On the palate the almost perfect synthesis of opulence and buoyant lightness. Even 13.5 % alcohol does not give the impression of heaviness or opulence. An extremely present, green and herbaceous minerality completely substitutes the moderate, rather soft acidity of the vintage. At the same time it ensures a high degree of liveliness and conveys the perception of elegance and finesse when drunk, apparently in contrast to the monumental fullness and concentration. Outstanding length, very good persistence.

17.5

Tasted on 1 June 2019 by Werner Elflein

Günther Steinmetz

Moselweinstraße 154
54472 Brauneberg
Germany
Phone: +49 6534 751
Fax: +49 6534 940921
Internet: www.weingut-guenther-steinmetz.de
E‑mail: info@weingut-guenther-steinmetz.de

All wines of the producer at weinfreaks.de

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2020 Brauneberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 12 21 • 11 % alcohol

16

Tasted on 30 July 2021 by Werner Elflein

Brilliantly bright. Spicy scent of pear, white berries, gooseberry and some woodruff. Animating spiciness and minerality, vibrates on the tongue. Continues the style of past vintages, although 2020 is somewhat leaner. Excellent length.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2020 Dhron Hofberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 11 21 • 12 % alcohol

16.5

Tasted on 30 July 2021 by Werner Elflein

Brilliantly bright. Cool, fine fragrance with notes from spontaneous fermentation, some citrus, carambola and passion fruit. Predominantly discreet but tropical aromas. Mineral spiciness, ripe, vibrant acidity, very good length.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2020 Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 13 21 • 11 % alcohol

14

Tasted on 30 July 2021 by Werner Elflein

Brilliantly bright. Floral Riesling scent. Slender, lightly dancing over the tongue, with vital acidity. Discreet wood barrel note. Good length. Not quite as expressive as in earlier years, but still the prototype of a litre wine that invites you to drink it.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2020 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Kabinett

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 6 21 • 9 % alcohol

15

Tasted on 31 July 2021 by Werner Elflein

Brilliantly bright. Discreet Riesling aroma with faint hints of peach and fine spontaneous fermentation aromas. Still a little closed on the nose, but clearly more open on the tongue. Peach again. Vibrant minerality. Finesse-rich and elegant Kabinett with a hint of well-balanced sweetness and integrated acidity. Stylistically reminiscent of the Sonnenuhr Kabinetts from Joh. Jos. Prüm from the nineties. Very good length.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2020 Kesten Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 8 21 • 8 % alcohol

16.5

Tasted on 30 July 2021 by Werner Elflein

Brilliantly bright. Restrained Riesling aroma with delicate tropical fruit notes and a hint of woodruff. Delicate, with good acidity, elegant and fine, aromas of bitter orange. Excellent length. A masterful old-school Kabinett.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2020 Mülheim Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 9 21 • 7.5 % alcohol

15

Tasted on 30 July 2021 by Werner Elflein

Greenish to greyish, bright yellow. Vanilla-like, subtle scent of lime. Lean, exemplary and classic Kabinett, which lives primarily from its freshness, its vital acidity and the associated radiance. Notes of grapefruit on the finish. Good length.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2020 Piesport Grafenberg Riesling Kabinett

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 7 21 • 8 % alcohol

16.5

Tasted on 30 July 2021 by Werner Elflein

Brilliantly bright. Cool, rather quiet aroma of tropical citrus fruits. On the tongue, the fruit aromas are embedded in a juicy, fresh and pleasant overall structure. Vital acidity, excellent length. A Kabinett in the style of the nineties.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2020 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 10 21 • 8 % alcohol

16.5

Tasted on 1 August 2021 by Werner Elflein

Brilliantly bright. Green herbal scent with hints of lovage. In the background some carambola. Slender cabinet style, mineral and playful. Not yet optimally balanced due to the relatively high alcohol and the rather restrained sweetness. Comparatively moderate acidity. Good length.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2020 Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 4 21 • 7 % alcohol

18

Tasted on 30 July 2021 by Werner Elflein

Greenish lime yellow. Highly mineral aroma of lime, star fruit and a hint of woodruff, with hints of jam and green tea. Stunning, youthful sweetness-acidity play with radiant acidity and well-balanced sweetness. Juicy and rich in finesse. Slate-spicy finish, excellent length.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2020 Neumagen Rosengärtchen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 3 21 • 7 % alcohol

19

Tasted on 30 July 2021 by Werner Elflein

Brilliant straw yellow with white gold reflections. Concentrated aroma of partly candied citrus fruits and a touch of mint, marked by finest sultana notes. Enormously juicy on the tongue. Extensive fruitiness, subtle, filigree acidity, enigmatic. Very present slate spicy minerality. Impressive finish, enormous length, endless reverberation. Needs time.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2020 Brauneberg Mandelgraben Riesling Eiswein Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 2 21 • 8 % alcohol

19

Tasted on 3 August 2021 by Werner Elflein

Read on 13 January 2021 at -9 °C. Brilliant bright lemon yellow. Highly elegant ice wine scent. Not too expansive on the nose. Subtle nose with aromas of dried citrus fruits and green herbs. Complex, deep and creamy, yet light-footed fruitiness dancing across the tongue. An ice wine of the finest execution, close to perfection. Excellent length, reverberation lasting several minutes.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2019 Brauneberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 2 20 • 12.5 % alcohol

16

Tasted on 24 April 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright yellow. Complex nose, marked by spontaneous fermentation, with a delicate planty, green-leaved slate aroma of wild strawberry and some green apple. Tense attack on the palate. Perfect balance with vibrating acidity and a touch of sweetness. Delicate, juicy Riesling with style and high animation factor. Very good length.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2019 Dhron Hofberg GD Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 21 20 • 12 % alcohol

18.5

Tasted on 28 August 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright yellow. Initially still very fruity in the nose. Protruding scent of peach and passion fruit, underlaid with the distinctive slate spice typical for the complex soil structure of the Dhroner Hofberg. Impressive on the palate with a great accord of elegance, fineness, creaminess, most delicate sweetness and ripe, integrated acidity that is piquant on the long finish. With air, the opulent fruit aromas retreat somewhat and give way to the minerality. The wine becomes even deeper and more complex than it presented itself at the beginning. Finely spiced notes of wild herbs complete the taste and already indicate the great future potential.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2019 Neumagen Rosengärtchen von den Terrassen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 20 20 • 13 % alcohol

19

Tasted on 2 September 2020 by Werner Elflein

Greenish yellow with white gold. Despite the obviously enormous concentration – Stefan Steinmetz speaks of a yield of 20 hectoliters per hectare – the Riesling from the Rosengärtchen does not captivate with its expansive, but rather quiet and subtle aromas. The nose is highly mineral – reminiscent of pureed slate – with complex scent of black currant, mint, green tea, green apple and a hint of star fruit. Shows the cool-climate facets of the vintage, unfolds on the tongue without any weight. Even 13 % alcohol seems to be absent in this context. Focused on the essentials and with great depth. Ripe, harmonious acidity, already excellently integrated at this early stage, dry taste. Excellent length and sustainability.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2019 Piesport Goldtröpfchen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 10 20 • 12 % alcohol

16.5

Tasted on 1 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright yellow with golden white and straw yellow reflections. Currently still a little closed, restrained fruity nose with aromas of ripe yellow fruits and already recognizable mineral foundation. In the mouth fine acidity against a background of high maturity and density. Green herbal notes and a distinctive slate minerality still need time to give the wine its final contours. However, after a longer contact with air it already shows what it is made of. Good to very good length.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2019 Piesport Grafenberg GP Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 16 20 • 12.5 % alcohol

18.5

Tasted on 4 September 2020 by Werner Elflein

Greenish yellow. In the still slightly reductive and restrained nose hints of citrus, especially pomelo, grapefruit and nectarine skin. Floral component reminiscent of white flowers. Puristic and dust-dry on the tongue, with a striking but mature acidity and partly planty, partly again floral notes. Highly mineral, comparisons with rock flour are obvious. Very long and persistent.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2019 Piesport Treppchen von den Terrassen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 19 20 • 13.5 % alcohol

19

Tasted on 7 September 2020 by Werner Elflein

Greenish yellow with white gold. Reserved scent of starfruit with a distinctly reminiscent but still undeveloped minerality. Strong stature with perfectly integrated alcohol. Opulent only on the surface, already possesses a great inner harmony. Elegant, mature, thoroughly vital acidity. Dry taste. Excellent length. Currently still very closed. A rough diamond that needs ten years of maturation and should then be one of the undisputed Riesling monuments of the vintage.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2019 Wiltingen Rosenberg Riesling Alte Reben Saar Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 9 20 • 12 % alcohol

17.5

Tasted on 26 April 2020 by Werner Elflein

Light lemon yellow. Cool, yeasty and extremely mineral Riesling scent with green herbal nuances. Slender and finesse-rich Saar Riesling in classic, traditional style. Enormous spice and piquancy on the palate. Vibrant, ripe acidity. Lasting, razor-sharp slate minerality. Great length. Reminiscent of the great Cool Climate Rieslings from the time before global warming.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2019 Wintrich Ohligsberg GW Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 17 20 • 13.5 % alcohol

18

Tasted on 3 September 2020 by Werner Elflein

At present extremely closed, but will provide the first deeper insights after treatment in the Ovarius decanter. Bright straw yellow with green and golden reflections. In the nose, which is still capable of developing in terms of complexity, a broad spectrum of aromas is already evident with yellow plum, peach, cantaloupe melon and green apple. A powerful attack on the tongue with spicy notes of white pepper. Slightly vibrating, ripe and harmoniously integrated acidity. Dry taste. Can easily compensate the alcohol of 13,5 %. Long aftertaste. Requires several years of bottle ageing.

Winewhitedry to off-dryPinot Gris

2019 Pinot Gris Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 12 20 • 11 % alcohol

15.5

Tasted on 8 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Lemon yellow. Typical Pinot Gris nose with scents of green apple and wild strawberry. Delicately creamy fruitiness, dry taste, balanced ratio of sweetness and acidity. Harmonious, very long.

Winewhiteoff-dryRiesling

2019 Veldenz Grafschafter Sonnenberg Riesling Alte Reben Qualitätswein feinherb

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 11 20 • 13.5 % alcohol

17.5

Tasted on 15 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Greenish straw yellow. Ethereal bouquet with aromas of eucalyptus, mint, avocado and ripe yellow pome fruit. Dense, mineral concentrate in the style of an off-dry Auslese. Despite 13.5 % alcohol, it does not appear opulent. Fine, excellently balanced acidity. Delicate sweetness. Currently still closed, but after treatment in the Ovarius decanter its undeniable greatness is indicated. Very long and persistent.

Winewhiteoff-dryRiesling

2019 Kesten Paulinsberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule feinherb

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 18 20 • 13 % alcohol

18

Tasted on 27 August 2020 by Werner Elflein

Greenish yellow with white gold. Concentrated, berry scent of peach stone, star fruit and some wild strawberry. With aeration also hints of green apple. Powerful attack in the mouth with quite noticeable alcohol. With all opulence not too expansive, with fine creaminess, well perceptible sweetness, elegant acidity and mineral notes in the very long finish. Still very young, in its current stage of maturation it only opens up after prolonged contact with air and then reveals the enormous potential it holds. A monument for the next decades, which still needs time to find perfect inner harmony.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 3 20 • 8 % alcohol

17.5

Tasted on 28 April 2020 by Werner Elflein

Lemon yellow with white-golden reflections. Fine, elegant and moderately fruity scent of bitter orange and vineyard peach. Full-bodied cabinet with ripe, vibrating acidity that literally explodes in the mouth, almost perfectly balanced fruit sweetness, outstanding depth and excellent, very long finish. An investment for the future, in the tradition of great Rieslings from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2019 Piesport Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 5 20 • 7 % alcohol

18.5

Tasted on 23 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Reflective, saturated lemon yellow. Lush and ripe fruit aromas on the nose, which are primarily reminiscent of star fruit and tropical citrus fruits, but also somewhat of pear, pineapple and black currant. Full and juicy on the tongue, not stingy with sweetness. Finesse-rich, fine and complex acidity. From the type rather an Auslese than a Spätlese. Excellent length and sustainability. Should be allowed to mature for at least ten, better 15 years.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2019 Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 8 20 • 8 % alcohol

19

Tasted on 20 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Yellowish white gold. Highly concentrated berry fragrance with aromas of candied citrus fruits and a hint of herbal sugar. On the tongue with breathtaking fruit-acid play. Dense and filigree at the same time. Vibrating and full of finesse. Excellent length, great sustainability. Will probably reach maturity only with the retirement age of our great-grandsons.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2019 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 6 20 • 7.5 % alcohol

19

Tasted on 1 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Light white gold with green-yellow reflections. Highly elegant and very fine, cool scent of ripe citrus and tropical fruits. Focused, juicy and almost weightless on the tongue, with razor-sharp contours, great finesse and breathtaking play of not too lush sweetness and radiant but ripe acidity. Dancing in the style of a cool-climate Riesling and with perfect balance to the furthest corners of the mouth. Outstanding length. A masterpiece of German sweet wine culture.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2019 Wintrich Geierslay Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 7 20 • 8 % alcohol

18

Tasted on 12 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Pale green light golden yellow. In the bouquet lush aromas of dried citrus fruits and a fine berry note. It almost seems paradoxical that this Auslese from a cooler vineyard is more reminiscent of a warm summer than its counterpart from the Brauneberger Juffer, which is more in keeping with the ideal of a cool-climate Riesling. Stefan Steinmetz explains this phenomenon comprehensibly and conclusively with sunburn and consequently lowest yields with a high concentration of berries. The playful acidity falls a little behind in view of the fruity opulence, almost reminiscent of a Beerenauslese, but balances the sweetness very well. Excellent length. Probably needs a lot of time to mature in the bottle.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Brauneberg Juffer GB Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 29 19 • 13 % alcohol

17.5

Tasted on 24 August 2019 by Werner Elflein

Brilliant lemon yellow. Dense and very fine scent, characterised by stone fruit, especially peach and peach stone, excellently balanced. With 13 % alcohol everything but a lightweight, but the body is almost perfectly integrated into the creamy fruit fullness. Everything seems so conclusive and so natural that the question of acidity, which at best plays a secondary role here, does not even arise. A wine like silk on the palate and from a single source, soft and lasting.

16.5

Tasted on 1 June 2019 by Werner Elflein

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Brauneberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 10 19 • 12 % alcohol

16

Tasted on 17 August 2019 by Werner Elflein

Grey to lemon yellow. Still with distinct spontaneous aromas in the nose. Mineral scent of cassis and subtle hints of peach and nectarine. Touching on the palate, juicy and animating. Vibrating minerality and a freshness rare for the vintage. Very good length. Shows a significant improvement compared to the first tasting in June 2019.

14.5

Tasted on 1 June 2019 by Werner Elflein

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Dhron Großer Hengelberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 35 19 • 13 % alcohol

17.5

Tasted on 19 September 2019 by Werner Elflein

Light white gold. Dense bouquet of stone fruit, especially yellow apricot and highly ripe lemon. In the mouth with two halves. The first half is dominated by a creamy opulence. A fruity note and a mineralic, delicate astringent spice provide relief on the palate at the same time. Despite all the strength and fullness – the 13% alcohol is very well integrated, but cannot be discussed away either – not at all cumbersome or even baroque. With so much density and concentration the question of the acidity hardly arises, although it appears in the second half and at the latest in the impressively long finale, so to speak in the aftertime, finally nevertheless noticeably, more or less firmly coated. Enormous persistence on the tongue.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Dhron Großer Hengelberg Riesling Reserve Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 34 19 • 13.5 % alcohol

19.5

Tasted on 20 September 2019 by Werner Elflein

Currently still a little closed. Opens very well after a short aeration in the Ovarius decanter. Light golden yellow. Fulminant pineapple scent. Delicate smoky and fine ethereal notes from ageing in the new Stockinger barrel. On the palate with monumental, almost baroque fullness and a pineapple fruit that covers the entire mouth. At 13.5 % alcohol, it is undoubtedly anything but a lightweight. Nevertheless, thanks to an invigorating acidity, there is no feeling of saturation. The Hengelberg Reserve effortlessly manages the balancing act between apparent opposites: juiciness and vital acid structure defy the creamy and voluminous opulence, tension and mineral vibration meet stoic noblesse. Fine spicy slate note. Outstanding length and sustainability. One of the really great German Rieslings. Requires several years bottle ripening.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Dhron Hofberg GD Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 30 19 • 13.5 % alcohol

18

Tasted on 21 September 2019 by Werner Elflein

Bright white gold. A wide bouquet of carambola and ripe citrus. On the palate, creamy opulence meets a filigree but at the same time very intense mineral play. Perceptible sweetness of an off-dry Riesling, moderately echoing acidity, discreet phenolic component. Expressive, with outstanding length and great persistence.

17

Tasted on 1 June 2019 by Werner Elflein

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Dhron Hofberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 37 19 • 12.5 % alcohol

15.5

Tasted on 6 September 2019 by Werner Elflein

Lemon yellow. In the nose with a floral touch and the honey-spicy scent of white flowers and yellow apple. Urgently needs a few more months of time. Currently still appears a little closed on the palate, but shows promising approaches, even if fine juicy fruit and delicate acidity are currently still irreconcilable and must find each other. Good length.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Neumagen Rosengärtchen von den Terrassen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 36 19 • 12 % alcohol

18

Tasted on 1 September 2019 by Werner Elflein

Bright, white-golden tinge of yellow. Dense bouquet with aromas of fresh, homemade compote of ripe yellow apples. Also some mint. Surprisingly moderate alcohol content against the backdrop of exceptional concentration and creamy, full body. Fine, elegant and lively acid structure, which has a balancing and refreshing effect. Despite its enormous taste volume, it is not satiating. Outstanding length. Contrasts with the extremely mineral, rather vertical 2017, depending on the vintage.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Piesport Goldtröpfchen GP Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 49 19 • 12.5 % alcohol

18

Tasted on 11 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Greenish white gold. Fruity bouquet, reminiscent of hot slate, with aromas of peach and peach stone. In view of its powerful body (13.5 % alcohol), it is surprisingly light and elegantly hovering above the tongue. Nevertheless very present, every square centimetre in the mouth is lined. Only in the “last third” with increased noticeable pressure on the palate. Delicate residual sugar. Mineral spice in the finale. Very long and persistent.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Piesport Grafenberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 28 19 • 12.5 % alcohol

16.5

Tasted on 2 September 2019 by Werner Elflein

Greenish lemon yellow. Cool, delicate Riesling fragrance with red fruit accents. Juicy and clearly focused, also a little green herbaceous. Vital acidity. A border crosser between cool and hot climate, combining the good sides of both worlds. A little more charming and softer after about two hours of air contact. Excellent length and sustainability. An atypical representative of the 2018 vintage in the best sense of the word.

15.5

Tasted on 1 June 2019 by Werner Elflein

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Piesport Treppchen von den Terrassen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 48 19 • 13.5 % alcohol

17.5

Tasted on 14 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Pale yellow with a white-gold core. From the glass, ripe, lush aromas of peach and peach stone rise to the nose, while a very distinct mineral component clearly indicates pure slate rock. In the mouth this duality continues conclusively. Tiny slate platelets seem to rub against the surface of the tongue. The analytical values of acidity and sugar appear completely insignificant in this context. Inevitably there is only one question: How much terroir can the human mind cope with? This is a monumental Riesling, which in its style is somewhat reminiscent of the Wachau, and where unfortunately the alcohol only stands out a little. Very good length.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Veldenz Grafschafter Sonnenberg Riesling Alte Reben Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 43 19 • 13 % alcohol

17

Tasted on 3 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Pale green white gold. Complex, but primarily fruity bouquet with aromas of yellow apple. Also reminiscent of a fresh compote with large apple pieces. Also notes of orange and mandarin. On the palate with a fine spicy attack, but no less marked by the fruits described above. Subtle minerality hidden behind a door. But slowly the door handle moves downwards, and quietly, dancing on tiptoe, mineral notes sneak up and vibrate in the mouth. A great substance that packs alcohol, acidity and sweetness into a delicate creamy fullness. Excellent depth, lingering for a long time.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Wintrich Geierslay Riesling sur lie Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 42 19 • 12 % alcohol

16.5

Tasted on 18 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Bright, sparkling straw yellow. Concentrated Riesling fragrance with fine peach aromas. On the tongue with the presence of a Spätlese. Playful, with vital acidity and aromatic density. At the same time elegant and with a spicy and penetrating fingerprint of slate on the palate. Very good length and persistence.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Wintrich Geierslay GW Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 44 19 • 13 % alcohol

16

Tasted on 25 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Bright bright yellow. Already the nose with its concentrated scent of stone fruit suggests that this is a very opulent wine. In the mouth it has a creamy mouthfeel and a mineral foundation, that is difficult to assert itself against the monumental bulwark. The alcohol stands out a little. The taste picture corresponds to an off-dry Auslese. Very long and with a powerful finish.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Wintrich Ohligsberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 38 19 • 13 % alcohol

16.5

Tasted on 26 September 2019 by Werner Elflein

Currently still quite closed. Responds well to aeration in the Ovarius decanter. Light golden yellow. Puristic Riesling scent with a fine herb note, which is reminiscent of a well-known Swiss herb drop. In the nose, however, also with aromas of yellow and green apple as well as some apple skin. Still a bit monolithic on the palate. Juicy fruit, fine acidity, dry taste, very good length. Needs time to develop.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 32 19 • 12 % alcohol

15

Tasted on 16 August 2019 by Werner Elflein

Aged as a litre wine in a wood fudder, spontaneously fermented and for this reason alone a provocation of the mainstream. Pale grey yellow. In the nose with fine, but not primary fruit aromas and the scent of blue slate. Distinctly influenced by the wild cellar yeasts. More complexity develops in the air. Nuances of cinnamon and wild strawberries. Straight-lined on the tongue and primarily committed to minerality. Invigorating, piquant acidity, tart, spicy character. Extremely dry, yet charming and balanced. Very good length.

Natural wineorange/amberdry to off-dryChardonnay

2018 “Virgo Natura” Chardonnay

Germany

Landwein der Mosel • Geschützte geografische Angabe (g. g. A.)

Lot 01/20 • 13 % alcohol

17

Tasted on 4 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Orange gold. Deep, floral scent of elderberry and fruit. The carbonic acid still perceptible after opening the bottle closed with a crown cap proves to be volatile. On the tongue it is creamy, with a soft melt and high-quality phenols that are not at all bitter. Elegant and fine, despite well packaged (or let's better say: hidden) 13 % alcohol. Rich aromas, reminiscent of ancient yellow apple and pear varieties, accompanied by a subtle spice of blossom honey. Still well recognizable as Chardonnay. Excellent length.

Winewhiteoff-dryRiesling

2018 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Kabinett feinherb

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 21 19 • 11 % alcohol

16.5

Tasted on 20 August 2019 by Werner Elflein

After the Brauneberger Riesling, another high-class representative of the 2018 collection by Stefan Steinmetz, whom I highly rated at the first tasting in June, but who, as it now turns out, was still somewhat underestimated. However, the development over the past two and a half months clearly speaks for the wine. Lemon yellow with a white-gold hint. Fruity bouquet, marked by spontaneous fermentation and a fine peach note. On the tongue, despite all its strength and fullness – only 10 % alcohol – with an elegance worthy of a Kabinett. Juicy Riesling fruit, animating play of rugged slate minerality, delicate sweetness and subtle acidity. Although all components are very well balanced, the wine has enough character and independence to stand out in its predicate category (also stylistically). In the excellent and long finish it is exceptionally powerful without losing its shape.

15

Tasted on 1 June 2019 by Werner Elflein

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2018 Mülheim Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 19 19 • 9 % alcohol

16

Tasted on 30 October 2019 by Werner Elflein

Pale yellow. Still underdeveloped and restrained bouquet with subtle aromas of peach and nectarine. Straightforward and razor-sharp, this classic Kabinett focuses on the essentials with a mouthwatering juiciness and a piquant, spicy, mature and perfectly integrated acidity. A Riesling with a great fun and animation factor that I would hardly have thought possible in the 2018 vintage. Very long and persistent.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2018 Piesport Grafenberg Riesling Kabinett

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 20 19 • 10 % alcohol

16

Tasted on 22 October 2019 by Werner Elflein

Light white gold with a greenish touch. Mineral and slightly planty scent of grapefruit and peach. Juicy Riesling fruit with piquant acidity and a tangy spicy note. Classical Kabinett style with a very moderate sweetness. Therefore quite strong for its predicate level and rather a Spätlese from its weight class. Shows in the finale pure grapefruit aromas with the corresponding bitterness. Excellent length. Could come in this form from a much cooler year.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2018 Dhron Großer Hengelberg Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 13 19 • 8.5 % alcohol

18

Tasted on 18 September 2019 by Werner Elflein

Light white gold. Impressively concentrated and clearly focused berry scent. On the palate, it does not rely on the striking contrast of the acidity with sweetness, but captivates with a filigree, multi-layered, ultra-fine and enigmatic play of minerality and fruit, perfectly embedded in the creamy mouthfeel. Aromas of orange and carambola. Remarkable fullness of an Auslese, without any hint of botrytis. Excellent length.

18

Tasted on 1 June 2019 by Werner Elflein

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2018 Kesten Paulinsberg Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 12 19 • 10 % alcohol

19

Tasted on 11 October 2019 by Werner Elflein

Light white gold with a slight green hue. Already when uncorking, pure nectarine fragrance rises from the bottleneck into the nose with hints of peach and apricot. In the mouth the fruit spreads explosively over the tongue and on the palate. Juicy and with a (for the vintage) surprisingly expressive and perfectly balanced play of sweetness and acidity. Excellent length. A Spätlese with a high animation factor, made for several decades.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2018 Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 16 19 • 8 % alcohol

18.5

Tasted on 29 October 2019 by Werner Elflein

Greenish white gold. Of opulent fruit expression, with a bouquet partly characterised by dried fruit. Predominantly ripe yellow fruits, with a tropical component in the background. On the tongue, this Auslese is by no means too sweet; in view of its long lifespan, a higher residual sugar level would perhaps even be desirable. Impresses on the palate by demanding fruity fullness and a slightly banana texture, which reminds in its expression of the hot vintages 2003 and 2005. Elegant and restrained play of ripe acidity in the finish. Excellent length and persistence. It must be mature and should show its full potential after twenty rather than ten years.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2018 Dhron Großer Hengelberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 14 19 • 7.5 % alcohol

19.5

Tasted on 7 October 2019 by Werner Elflein

Pure white gold. Concentrated berry scent with fine, discreetly echoing aromas of partly highly ripe, partly baked pineapple. Light as a feather on the tongue. On the palate highly elegant and with enormous density, which surprisingly comes from completely botrytis-free grapes (105 °Oechsle). Outstanding balance. Delicate, subtle acidity, covered in creamy substance. Not too sweet. Breathtaking length, excellent sustainability. Not made for the present. This Auslese owns the future.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2018 Dhron Hofberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 15 19 • 8 % alcohol

19

Tasted on 24 September 2019 by Werner Elflein

Brilliant bright white gold. Winemaking legend Hans Günter Schwarz, who always propagated the clear fruit of the grape in the wine, would have his true pleasure in this very fine, precise berry scent. On the tongue with pure elegance. Extremely filigree and with a great balance. Delicate creaminess on the palate, subtle acidity, perfectly balanced sweetness, excellent depth and length.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2018 Kesten Paulinsberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 17 19 • 8 % alcohol

17.5

Tasted on 1 November 2019 by Werner Elflein

Light green-yellow. Spontaneously spicy bouquet with complex fruit aromas that make it difficult to give exact names. Karambole is most appropriate when the acidity of the fruit is disregarded. A sweet component is reminiscent of apricot jelly. Juicy on the palate, with good acidity and surprisingly moderate sweetness. Partly with slightly blurred contours. The spice aromas and phenols are still searching for their fixed place. Among this year's Rieslings by Stefan Steinmetz with predicate Auslese, this one is probably the least developed. Reminiscent of a television thriller whose plot takes a surprising turn several times. An Auslese that real wine freaks might say much more than the mainstream drinker due to its profound complexity. Outstanding length and sustainability.

WinewhitesweetRiesling

2018 Piesport Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 18 19 • 9 % alcohol

18

Tasted on 24 October 2019 by Werner Elflein

Green-yellow with white-golden reflections. A fruity, not too broad bouquet of ripe orange. In the second nose finely spicy, green and herbal nuances. Opens in the mouth with a delicate creamy fullness that contrasts almost perfectly with a slightly delayed fruity play marked by fresh acidity. Not too present sweetness. Moderately echoing botrytis in the very long finish. Great persistence.

WinereddryPinot Noir

2016 Mülheim Sonnenlay Pinot Noir Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 4 18 • 12.5 % alcohol

18.5

Tasted on 10 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Transparent, brightening garnet red with discrete turbidity. Fresh, animating nose with a focused scent of sour cherry. Ripe but not overly ripe fruit. Characterised by tension, elegance and finesse. Even in this very dense Pinot Noir by Stefan Steinmetz, the use of wooden barrels by Romanée-Conti is noticeable, but the grainy tannins are already quite harmonious and even a touch of dark chocolate can be tasted in the finish. Excellent length and depth. Spicy aftertaste. An investment for at least twenty years. Should definitely mature on the bottle for another ten years.

18.5

Tasted on 1 June 2019 by Werner Elflein

Steinmetz & Hermann

Germany
– discontinued –

All wines of the producer at weinfreaks.de

Winewhitedry to off-dryRiesling

2018 Ürzig Würzgarten Riesling Alte Reben Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 40 19 • 13.5 % alcohol

17.5

Tasted on 12 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Straw yellow. Mineral, concentrated scent of highly ripe yellow-fleshed fruits. Powerful Riesling with a distinctly perceptible, slightly warming alcohol. Filigree acidity on the tongue, salty minerality, harmonious, well balanced residual sugar, outstanding length, great persistence.

WinereddryPinot Noir

2016 Pinot Noir Qualitätswein *** trocken

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 2577121 13 18 • 12 % alcohol

18

Tasted on 1 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Dark garnet red with medium transparency. In the nose with cool Pinot fruit and a hint of sour cherry. On the palate again, and this time more clearly, sour cherry, combined with an enormous, ethereal echoing spice. Great freshness, partly crumbly, sandy, partly fine-grained tannins. Excellent length, very persistent. Needs time.

18.5

Tasted on 1 June 2019 by Werner Elflein