Harteneck reinvents himself

Natural wines from the Markgräflerland

29 November 2020
Werner Elflein

Soil improvers in biodynamics: cow horns with manure

The thousand injuries of Fortunato I had borne as I best could, but when he ventured upon insult I vowed revenge. You, who so well know the nature of my soul, will not suppose, however, that I gave utterance to a threat. At length I would be avenged; this was a point definitively settled — but the very definitiveness with which it was resolved precluded the idea of risk.

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I must not only punish but punish with impunity. A wrong is unredressed when retribution overtakes its redresser. It is equally unredressed when the avenger fails to make himself felt as such to him who has done the wrong. It must be understood that neither by word nor deed had I given Fortunato cause to doubt my good will. I continued, as was my wont, to smile in his face, and he did not perceive that my smile now was at the thought of his immolation.

The wines at a glance

Symbols

⧛	The rating of the wine reflects the mean value from a tasting by our jury.
⚖	The wine was evaluated in a blind tasting.
⛬	The wine was tasted as a barrel sample or before an official test number (Amtliche Prüfungsnummer or Staatliche Prüfnummer) was issued.
▲	The wine exhibited a sensory abnormality during our tasting. This does not necessarily have to be a qualitative defect or a wine fault. In the case of a qualitative impairment, a devaluation or rejection was made depending on the type and severity of the defect or wine fault.

Thomas Harteneck

Brezelstraße 15
79418 Schliengen
Germany
Phone: +49 7635 8837
Fax: +49 7635 823755
Internet: www.weingut-harteneck.de
E‑mail: info@weingut-harteneck.de

All wines of the producer at weinfreaks.de

WinewhitedryPinot Blanc

2019 Weißburgunder Landwein trocken

Germany

Badischer Landwein • Geschützte geografische Angabe (g. g. A.)

Lot 10 20 • 12 % alcohol

15.5

Tasted on 27 April 2021 by Werner Elflein

Greenish straw yellow. Cool scent of Williams pear and fresh hay. Elegant, light-footed varietal representative with vital acidity and quiet, yet expressive aromatics and excellent balance. Freshness meets inner calm. Very good length.

15.5

Tasted on 29 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Natural winewhitedryAuxerrois

2019 “Jurakalk” Auxerrois

Germany

Badischer Landwein • Geschützte geografische Angabe (g. g. A.)

Lot 31 20 • 12.5 % alcohol

Tasted on 12 May 2021 by Werner Elflein

In the meantime, it shows a clear cloudiness with an unchanged bright straw yellow. The nose is now dominated by pineapple, pear and melon, with hints of star fruit still visible. On the palate, juicy fruitiness and distinct mineral notes. Creamy and very well balanced under a lively, vibrant fermentation carbonation, with fine acidity and delicate spice in the long finish. An initial slight bitterness dissipates under the influence of air. Sustained and penetrating.

Tasted on 3 October 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright straw yellow. Auxerrois characterised by limestone soil and mineral notes. Complex scent of liquorice, melon, conference pear, candied pineapple and star fruit, underscored by vanilla and lemongrass. Also on the palate marked by Jura limestone. Due to the malolactic effect, it is slightly buttery and has a delicate creaminess. Balanced, with elegant acidity, playful and always showing new facets. Excellent length. Although only minimally sulphurised, extremely stable, even under prolonged contact with air.

Tasted on 29 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Natural winewhitedryGutedel

2019 “Vollmond” Chasselas Landwein

Germany

Badischer Landwein • Geschützte geografische Angabe (g. g. A.)

Lot 34 20 • 11.5 % alcohol

Tasted on 28 April 2021 by Werner Elflein

Tasted on 10 December 2020 by Werner Elflein

Light greenish yellow with straw-yellow reflections. On the nose with mineral, earthy notes, floral touch and discreet fruit aromas reminiscent of fully ripe pear and lemon. On the tongue, light-bodied yet with high flavour intensity. Delicately creamy and juicy. Very dry, at the same time extremely moderate in acidity, yet vibrant and with traction, in the style of an animating Kabinett. Very good length.

16.5

Tasted on 29 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Natural wineorange/amberdryPinot Gris

2019 Geigenmantel Grauburgunder

Germany

Badischer Landwein • Geschützte geografische Angabe (g. g. A.)

Lot 29 20 • 13 % alcohol

17.5

Tasted on 24 May 2021 by Werner Elflein

17.5

Tasted on 17 November 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright copper pink with distinct haze. Refreshing and youthful scent of pink grapefruit, cantaloupe melon, green apple and red apple skin. Juicy fruit, which forms a red thread from the nose to the finale on the palate. In the mouth with noticeable carbonic acid and striking, almost sweetish phenolic, which gives structure without significant bitterness. Vital acidity, very dry, excellent length.

17.5

Tasted on 8 September 2020 by Werner Elflein

Tasted on 29 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Natural winerosédryCabernet CarolCabernet MitosPinot Noir

2019 Rosé fruchtig

Germany

Badischer Landwein • Geschützte geografische Angabe (g. g. A.)

Lot 36 20 • 11.5 % alcohol

Tasted on 6 January 2021 by Werner Elflein

Reflective, rather dark salmon pink. Complex bouquet with fruit aromas of apple, elderberry and wild strawberry, with air also some liquorice. On the tongue with great freshness, vibrant acidity and green herbal hints. Very dry on the palate and without any sugar coating. Excellent length.

Tasted on 29 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Natural winereddryPinot Noir

2019 “Diva” Pinot Noir

Germany

Badischer Landwein • Geschützte geografische Angabe (g. g. A.)

Lot 35 20 • 12.5 % alcohol

18.5

Tasted on 30 December 2022 by Werner Elflein

Who says, an unsulfured wine cannot age in grace? We are not talking about a decade, of course. That would indeed be presumptuous. But the “Diva”, with that Thomas Harteneck pursues the concept of a primeur, is now entering its fourth year in the bottle and proves to be extraordinarily stable. The initially still faintly transparent cherry red darkens with air and becomes completely opaque. Speaking of air, it does no harm. Initially still stormy and unbridled, the aromas round out more and more. The cherry, already perceptible in the youth, is still as present as the black currant. Elegance and delicacy drive each other to the extreme here. Velvety, perfectly woven tannins are perceivable on the tongue as slightly grainy. The acidity is soft but quite vital. Spicy finish. Great depth and length. A natural wine as we could only wish for and one that actually gets even better with maturity because it is more harmonious, complex and subtle. Almost everything fits here.

17.5

Tasted on 12 February 2021 by Werner Elflein

17.5

Tasted on 19 September 2020 by Werner Elflein

Initially still transparent light garnet red with a distinct haze. Later, with some air, it appears opaque in dark cherry red. Purple edge. Complex, delicate smoky scent of graphite and a hint of black and sour cherry. Some black currant jam and caramel. On the tongue it is very fine, elegant and perfectly balanced. Predominantly velvety, sometimes coarse-grained tannins, which spread harmoniously throughout the mouth without pushing to the fore. Protruding fruit, but in no way striking. Soft acidity. Great depth and length.

16.5

Tasted on 29 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

WinewhitedryGutedel

2018 Gutedel Landwein trocken

Germany

Badischer Landwein • Geschützte geografische Angabe (g. g. A.)

Lot 3 19 • 11.5 % alcohol

Tasted on 29 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Tasted on 28 April 2020 by Werner Elflein

Grayish yellow. Fine, slightly floral aroma of yellow fruit and pear. Creamy fruit, floral aromas, appearing sweet despite analytically low residual sugar. Vanilla hints on the finish. Good length.

Pétillant NaturelwhitedryCabernet Blanc

2018 “Mythos”

Germany

Lot 32 18 • 14.5 % alcohol

Tasted on 3 July 2021 by Werner Elflein

Cloudy golden to amber yellow. Fine bubbles. Impressively diverse aromas of pear, white currant, wild apple and a hint of walnut. Elegant mousseux, on the tongue with ethereal notes, great depth and excellent length.

Tasted on 1 January 2021 by Werner Elflein

Cloudy golden yellow-orange, very fine mousse. Multi-layered scent of pear compote, wild apple, passion fruit and other tropical fruits with hints of grapefruit and orange. With air and rising temperature also increasingly marked by hazelnut. In the mouth gripping and with a breathtaking play between yeasty sweetness and well-integrated carbonic acid, coated with a lively tartness and exotic spices. High-quality phenolic. Expressive until the never-ending finish.

Tasted on 29 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Natural winereddryCabernet FrancMerlotPinot Noir

2018 “Mythos”

Germany

Badischer Landwein • Geschützte geografische Angabe (g. g. A.)

Lot 33 19 • 14.5 % alcohol

Tasted on 11 May 2021 by Werner Elflein

Tasted on 11 October 2020 by Werner Elflein

Deep dark, opaque cherry to black red with a purple touch. Already in the nose with expressive fruit concentration. Aromas of blackcurrant, aronia and elderberry, accompanied by delicate smoky notes. Hints of smoked bacon and hazelnut. In the mouth warming, juicy and again with highly concentrated, sweetish fruit. Striking, ripe, partly velvety-sandy, partly fine-grained tannins. Excellent length, some chocolate in the finish.

Tasted on 29 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Natural winereddryMerlot

2018 “Paradies” Merlot

Germany

Badischer Landwein • Geschützte geografische Angabe (g. g. A.)

Lot 21 19 • 14.5 % alcohol

16.5

Tasted on 20 September 2021 by Werner Elflein

16.5⧛

Tasted on 20 September 2021 by our jury

17.5

Tasted on 26 September 2020 by Werner Elflein

Opaque black red. Complex scent of dark berries, especially blackberry and chokeberry, blueberry and elderberry jam, milk chocolate and black tea. Well integrated, slightly warming alcohol. Shows a harmonious interplay of fruit and distinctive, coarse-grained tannins with herbal facets on the palate. Fine, elegant acidity. Resting in itself. In the finish again clearly chocolate. Excellent length and depth.

Tasted on 29 June 2020 by Werner Elflein