Blaufränkisch – The next generation

Austrian's red wine slims down

Werner Elflein
19 January 2013

Sunset in Burgenland

Austrian red wines have a hard time in this country. Almost ineradicable in the minds of consumers is the idea that they are always ponderous wines disfigured by new wood to the point of being unrecognisable as a grape variety, as was still common in the 1990s. We still have the impression that many producers give priority to concentration over elegance. But in the meantime, a counter-current to the mainstream is forming. Blaufränkisch, an autochthonous Austrian grape variety, benefits not least from this, as it needs neither abundant alcohol nor exaggerated wood make-up to produce convincing, tannin-rich red wines with fine acidity.

We specifically searched for “next generation” Blaufränkisch red wines and discovered a number of candidates. All of them largely met our expectations in the blind tasting. Only rarely used the new wood a little too well-intentioned to us, but far from excessive.

One particularity concerns the wines of the Weninger winery in Horitschon. In addition to its Burgenland vineyards, it also cultivates vineyards across the border on the Hungarian side. The Spérn Steiner was already considered the best and most expensive vineyard in western Hungary (now Burgenland) in 1680. The Blaufränkisch (Kékfrankos) has had its home here since the phylloxera disaster.

The wines at a glance

Symbols

⧛	mean value from our jury
⚖	blind tasting
⛬	barrel sample
▲	tasted wine shows a qualitative defect and was devalued or rejected accordingly

Markus Altenburger

Untere Hauptstraße 62 • 7093 Jois • Austria
Phone: +43 2160 71089 • Fax: +43 2160 71089
Internet: www.markusaltenburger.com • E-Mail: contact@markusaltenburger.com

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2008 Ried Gritschenberg Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 5624 10 • 14 % alcohol

17⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Toni Hartl

Florianigasse 7 • 2440 Reisenberg • Austria
Phone: +43 2234 80636-0 • Fax: +43 2234 80636-4
Internet: www.toni-hartl.at • E-Mail: wine@toni-hartl.at

All 4 wines

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 Ried Edelgraben Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 5471 11 • 13 % alcohol

16⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 Ried Rosenberg Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 5306 11 • 13 % alcohol

16⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Jagini

Prangersgasse 2 • 7062 St. Margarethen • Austria
Phone: +43 664 4003231 • Fax: +43 2682 21506
Internet: www.moric.at • E-Mail: office@moric.at

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2008 Zagersdorf Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 7554 10 • 13 % alcohol

16⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Kloster am Spitz – Thomas Schwarz

Waldsiedlung 2 • 7083 Purbach • Austria
Phone: +43 676 9608875
Internet: www.thomasschwarz.at • E-Mail: weingut@klosteramspitz.at

All 5 wines

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 Ried Eisner Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein trocken

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 6744 11 • 13.5 % alcohol

15⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2006 Ried Eisner Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein trocken

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer E 7057 08 • 13.5 % alcohol

Tasted on 20 June 2018 by Werner Elflein

Not quite opaque, dark cherry red. A fragrance of ripe black cherry with subtle ethereal and green herbaceous spice, characterized by fine and complex roast flavours. On the tongue with authentic, extremely delicate fruit and predominantly fine sandy, partly also fine-grained tannins. It takes about two hours of air before the wine fully develops and shows its full depth. Outstanding length.

17.5

Tasted on 20 June 2018 by Ioulia Elflein

17⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Herrenhof Lamprecht

Pöllau 43 • 8311 Markt Hartmannsdorf • Austria
Phone: +43 699 1714968
Internet: www.herrenhof.net • E-Mail: office@herrenhof.net

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2011 Eisenberg Ried Hummergraben Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 4799 12 • 13 % alcohol

15⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Moric

Kirchengasse 3 • 7051 Großhöflein • Austria
Phone: +43 664 4003231 • Fax: +43 2682 21506
Internet: www.moric.at • E-Mail: office@moric.at

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 Lutzmannsburg Blaufränkisch Alte Reben Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 5133 11 • 13.5 % alcohol

16.5⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 Neckenmarkt Blaufränkisch Alte Reben Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 5134 11 • 13.5 % alcohol

17⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 St. Georgen Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 5131 11 • 14 % alcohol

16⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Dorli Muhr

Kirchengasse 24 • 2472 Prellenkirchen • Austria
Phone: +43 664 1804039
Internet: www.dorlimuhr.at • E-Mail: dorli@dorlimuhr.at

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2010 Ried Spitzerberg Qualitätswein trocken

Austria

Weinland ↳ Niederösterreich ↳ Carnuntum • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 6354 12 • 12.5 % alcohol • bottled under the former name Muhr-van der Niepoort

15.5

Tasted on 16 August 2020 by Werner Elflein

Initially garnet to cherry red with medium transparency, completely opaque within a few hours when exposed to air. Partly vegetal, partly mineral scent of graphite with restrained aromas of sour cherry and some varnish. On the tongue with an elegant and quiet attack, but densifies immediately. Despite moderate alcohol warming, coarse grained tannins, stable acidity. Strong roasted aromas bring a little bitterness. Very good length. A wine with clearly recognizable attributes of origin, which are unfortunately partially levelled out by the use of wood.

15⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Nehrer

St. Georgener Hauptstraße 16 • 7000 Eisenstadt • Austria
Phone: +43 2682 64380 • Fax: +43 2682 64380-4
Internet: www.nehrer.at • E-Mail: weingut@nehrer.at

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Niederösterreich ↳ Leithaberg • Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC)

Staatliche Prüfnummer E 5121 11 • 13.5 % alcohol

15.5⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Anita & Hans Nittnaus

Untere Hauptstraße 49 • 7122 Gols • Austria
Phone: +43 2173 2248 • Fax: +43 2173 2248-2
Internet: www.nittnaus.at • E-Mail: office@nittnaus.at

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2006 Leithaberg Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer E 5619 08 • 12.5 % alcohol

15⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Gut Oggau

Hauptstraße 31 • 7063 Oggau • Austria
Phone: +43 664 2069298 • Fax: +43 2685 47948
Internet: www.gutoggau.com • E-Mail: office@gutoggau.com

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 “Joschuari” Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 6133 11 • 13 % alcohol

16.5⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Panta Rhei

Weingartenstraße 37 • 7000 Eisenstadt • Austria
Phone: +43 2682 64638 • Fax: +43 2682 64638

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2008 Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 5886 10 • 13.5 % alcohol

17.5⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Uwe Schiefer

Welgersdorf 3 • 7503 Welgersdorf • Austria
Phone: +43 664 5219047 • Fax: +43 3362 2464
Internet: www.weinbau-schiefer.at • E-Mail: weinbau-schiefer@aon.at

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 Ried Reihburg Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland ↳ Südburgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer E 5737 11 • 13.5 % alcohol

17⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 Riede Szapary Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland ↳ Südburgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer E 4370 11 • 13.5 % alcohol

17⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Christian Tschida

Apetlonerstraße 23 • 7241 Illmitz • Austria
Phone: +43 2175 24158
Internet: www.tschidaillmitz.at • E-Mail: wein.tschida@aon.at

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 “Felsenstein” Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Staatliche Prüfnummer N 5344 11 • 12.5 % alcohol

Tasted on 11 September 2019 by Werner Elflein

Almost opaque, clouded cherry red. Vegetable scent of paprika and white cabbage. On the palate with a certain tension between acidity and tannins due to physiologically unripe parts of the grapes. Coarse-grained, but partly also sandy tannins. There is a slight lack of inner balance. Demanding and certainly not suitable for the mainstream. Very good length.

16⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Wachter-Wiesler

Deutsch Schützen 26 • 7474 Deutsch Schützen • Austria
Phone: +43 3365 2245 • Fax: +43 3365 2245
Internet: www.wachter-wiesler.at • E-Mail: wachter@wachter-wiesler.at

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2008 Ried Steinweg Blaufränkisch Reserve Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland ↳ Eisenberg • Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC)

Staatliche Prüfnummer E 6207 10 • 13.5 % alcohol

16⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

Weninger

Florianigasse 11 • 7312 Horitschon • Austria
Phone: +43 2610 42165
Internet: www.weninger.com • E-Mail: weingut@weninger.com

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2009 Spérn Steiner Kékfrankos

Hungary

Sopron • Oltalom alatt álló eredetmegjelöléssel ellátott bor (OEM)

13.5 % alcohol

16⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2008 Ried Hochäcker Blaufränkisch Qualitätswein

Austria

Weinland ↳ Burgenland ↳ Mittelburgenland • Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC)

Staatliche Prüfnummer E 8284 09 • 13 % alcohol

15⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury

WinereddryBlaufränkisch

2004 Spérn Steiner Kékfrankos

Hungary

Sopron • Oltalom alatt álló eredetmegjelöléssel ellátott bor (OEM)

13 % alcohol

16⧛⚖

Tasted on 19 January 2013 by our jury