Virginia on the road

Compared to the total area under vines in the United States, Virginia's viticulture may only play a minor role. In terms of quality, however, the wines of the state on the American east coast have become increasingly important in recent decades. Although Virginia's wines are still little known on the international stage, they are increasingly developing into important export goods.

Virginia is still a young wine region. It was not until the late 18^th century that European immigrants planted the first vineyards here. Among them was Thomas Jefferson, one of the founding fathers and third president of the United States, who himself cultivated vines for over 30 years at his country estate Monticello near Charlottesville.

Initial attempts to establish European grape varieties in Virginia failed – as only became apparent much later – due to the infestation of the vines by phylloxera. Wine producers therefore initially limited themselves to cultivate American wild vines.

Virginia's viticulture picked up speed in the 1950s, and it was not until the turn of the millennium that the proportion of Vitis vinifera grape varieties predominated for the first time, above all Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc for red wine production and Viognier for white wine production. Around 20 per cent of the vineyard area, which has now grown to 5000 hectares, is still planted with French hybrid vines, for example Chambourcin and Chancellor. The number of wineries has also grown – to over 300.

With around 6.25 million bottles of wine sold last year, Virginia is one of the most important wine-growing regions in the United States. The winegrowers attach great importance to quality, which has been reflected in various awards and increasing demand. The wine industry in Virginia has grown by 26 per cent over the past four years. Wine growing has thus become one of the most important economic sectors in the state.

Tourism is also benefiting from the increasing popularity of wine. Several wine trails lead through Virginia and connect the wineries with each other. Holidaymakers looking for nature experiences, relaxation and enjoyment can experience the state's magnificent landscape on the itineraries, but also taste the wines directly at the producers and be tempted by Virginia's cuisine. It is particularly attractive in autumn, when the leaves change colour for the grape harvest and wine festivals are celebrated in many places.

Image: Wikipedia

The United States' wine law defines a total of eight American Viticultural Areas (AVA) for Virginia: Middleburg Virginia, Monticello, North Fork of Roanoke, Northern Neck George Washington Birthplace, Rocky Knob, Virginia Peninsula, Virginia's Eastern Shore and – spanning the entire state – Appalachian High Country.

We tasted four wines that exemplify the diversity of this up-and-coming wine region. Although we only had a very small selection to choose from, it already gave us an idea of the great potential of Virginia's still young wine culture, which is naturally still in its infancy.

We take a critical look at the Williamsburg Winery's attempt to produce a light summer wine from the already low-acid Viognier, which is primarily predestined for full-bodied white wines, by adding carbon dioxide.

Michael Shaps is one step ahead here. From the Petit Manseng, which mainly generates sweet wines in the French Jura, he produces a dry white wine that reflects the characteristics of the grape variety. As expected, the low yields and thick berry skins lead to a pronounced phenolic flavour, which does not drift into bitterness here, however, but is warmly embedded in a powerful but well-structured framework.

Image: Wikipedia

Virginia's mild, temperate climate generally favours the production of full-bodied wines. Ideally, however, they are anything but ponderous. In both of the red wines we tasted, we found an impressive balance between power and elegance.

The Cabernet Franc from Paradise Springs would probably have been much more accessible in its youthful phase if it had not been blended with five per cent each of Petit Verdot and Tannat. The tannat content in particular, however low it may be, seems to shift some of the wine's key parameters. After a while in the decanter, the wine changes significantly and prevents a reliable prognosis regarding its long-term development. An initially harmonious, lightly fruity red wine becomes a tannic and closed monolith after two hours. We expect that the tannin structure will give the wine longevity and that several years of storage in the bottle will have a favourable effect.

With the “Eluvium”, Early Mountain has produced an outstanding Bordeaux-style cuvée. Based on 78 % Merlot and remarkable 22 % Petit Verdot, the wine comes very close to its French role model and would even be a perfect candidate for a pirate in a blind tasting with high-ranking Bordeaux wines. If you have time, you should definitely give it ten or more years to mature in the bottle. If you don't have the time, we strongly recommend to use the Ovarius decanter.