Stylistic device reduction
Playing with the fire
29 March 2024
Werner Elflein
Photo: Pixabay… reduction?
Reduction occurs during fermentation as a result of a stress situation for the yeasts, primarily due to a lack of oxygen or nitrogen. It manifests itself in the wine as a sulfurous odour reminiscent of burnt matches, flint or flintstone. Reduction must be differentiated from the related mercaptan sulfurous off-flavour, which can produce unpleasant odours of rotten eggs, among other things, and is a serious wine defect. Because some reduction notes are perceived as quite pleasant, many winemakers try to bring them out in the wine.
Opinions differ when it comes to reduction notes. Depending on their type and character, they can be rejected, accepted or even evoke enthusiasm in wine drinkers. They often seem deliberate, not always skilful. In particular, we take a critical view of the trend towards reductive, aromatically one-dimensional Chardonnays with an artificial flinty flavour. A reductive note, if present, should favourably complement the aroma of a wine, but not replace it.
The 2018 Pinot Noir “Muschelkalk” from the J. Neus winery in Ingelheim is a successful example of how a striking reduction can give a wine new facets. Despite 12.5 % alcohol, it is rather light-bodied, glides elegantly over the tongue, impresses with cool flavours of cassis, has very restrained tannins and can score with a good length. However, its pronounced reductive note, which does not significantly diminish with years of ageing in the bottle, does not meet with universal approval.
The thousand injuries of Fortunato I had borne as I best could, but when he ventured upon insult I vowed revenge. You, who so well know the nature of my soul, will not suppose, however, that I gave utterance to a threat. At length I would be avenged; this was a point definitively settled — but the very definitiveness with which it was resolved precluded the idea of risk.
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I must not only punish but punish with impunity. A wrong is unredressed when retribution overtakes its redresser. It is equally unredressed when the avenger fails to make himself felt as such to him who has done the wrong. It must be understood that neither by word nor deed had I given Fortunato cause to doubt my good will. I continued, as was my wont, to smile in his face, and he did not perceive that my smile now was at the thought of his immolation.
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Symbols
| ⧛ | The rating of the wine reflects the mean value from a tasting by our jury. |
| ⚖ | The wine was evaluated in a blind tasting. |
| ⛬ | The wine was tasted as a barrel sample or before an official test number (Amtliche Prüfungsnummer or Staatliche Prüfnummer) was issued. |
| ▲ | The wine exhibited a sensory abnormality during our tasting. This does not necessarily have to be a qualitative defect or a wine fault. In the case of a qualitative impairment, a devaluation or rejection was made depending on the type and severity of the defect or wine fault. |
J. Neus
Bahnhofstraße 96
55218 Ingelheim am Rhein
Germany
Phone: +49 6132 73003
Fax: +49 6132 2690
Internet: www.weingut-neus.de
E‑mail: info@weingut-neus.de
WinereddryPinot Noir
2018 Spätburgunder Muschelkalk Qualitätswein trocken
VDP.GUTSWEIN®
Germany
Rheinhessen • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 4366208 10 20 • 12.5 % alcohol
WinereddryPinot Noir
2018 Spätburgunder Muschelkalk Qualitätswein trocken
VDP.GUTSWEIN®
Germany
Rheinhessen • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)
Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 4366208 4 20 • 12.5 % alcohol