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Foam from the shore of Lake Garda

Four remarkable sparkling wines from Northern Italy

9 November 2020
Werner Elflein

schaeumendes-vom-ufer-des-gardasees.jpgImage: Pixabay
View of Lake Garda

Lake Garda is the largest inland lake in Italy. While it is surrounded to the north, west and east by the foothills of the Alps, which reach up to 2000 metres, the southern shore already lies in the lowlands of the Po. Three wine-growing regions border the lake, and sparkling wine production has a long tradition in all three. We present four sparkling wines for everyday domestic use. Three rosés and one single-varietal Chardonnay. Extra dry to extra brut.

Alessio Bigagnoli worked as a car mechanic and initially began his winemaking career as a garage winemaker. In 2012, he won an important competition with his Bardolino Chiaretto. Confirmed by the success, he founded his own “real” winery in the same year. “001” is a rosé-coloured Spumante from the Bardolino Classico DOC. With a share of 80 percent, the grape variety Corvina Veronese dominates, in addition to ten percent each of Rondinella and Molinara. After twelve hours of maceration, the must for the Spumante is obtained by extracting the juice. After temperature-controlled fermentation and weekly batonnage, the sparkling wine is finally fermented in stainless steel tanks. In the glass, the “001” presents itself finely fruity, accessible with pronounced raspberry and strawberry aromas and uncomplicated. It is therefore more suitable for enjoying on a hot summer evening on the balcony or terrace than as an accompaniment to sophisticated cuisine.

Guerrieri Rizzardi goes back to the Guerrieri and Rizzardi branches of the family. As early as the 17th century, the Guerrieris were engaged in agriculture and forestry in the region, while the Rizzardis came from a merchant family from Lombardy which expanded into large parts of northern Italy by purchasing various agricultural estates. The wine business increasingly developed through the acquisition of vineyards and, with the beginning of the 20th century, increasingly supplanted the mixed agricultural business. In addition to the headquarters in Bardolino, the family also owns vineyards in Valpolicella, Soave and in the Adige Valley.

The “Fior di Rosa” is, like the “001”, a rosé sparkling wine that contains some Sangiovese in addition to the grape varieties mentioned above. The grapes come from pergola (1500 vines per hectare) and Guyot (5000 vines per hectare) vineyards, all of which are located in the Bardolino Classico area which was once formed from glacial moraines. The soils consist of sandy and calcareous silt and have a high magnesium content. For the “Fior di Rosa”, the early ripened yield of young vines was deliberately used “to preserve the freshness”. The wine was also fermented in stainless steel tanks. Due to the higher residual sugar, the “Fior” is quite charming, but does not quite reach the depth of the “001”. But if you like it uncomplicated, you would not go wrong here.

“We enter our vineyards on tiptoe.” The statement seems exaggerated, but it sums up the basic attitude of the Olivini family. It is about purity of nature and the least possible interference with natural processes. From Groppello, Barbera, Sangiovese and Marzemino, the Olivinis make their Rosé from the Garda DOC, for which the classic method of bottle fermentation is used. The sparkling wine remains on the yeast for 36 months until it is disgorged.

Giovanna Prandini is the face behind Perla del Garda. The winery only came into being at the turn of the millennium. Since its beginnings, a total of 25 hectares of former dry farmland have been replanted with vines, taking into account the microclimate and soil conditions. Extremely remarkable is the pure Chardonnay sparkling wine from the Garda DOC with less than one gram of sugar per litre and five years of yeast storage. It stands for a serious spumante that still clearly shows the character of its base wine.

The wines at a glance

Bigagnoli

Via Veronello, 1
37010 Calmasino
Italy
Phone: +39 349 5633093
Internet: www.bigagnoliwines.com
E‑mail: info@bigagnoliwines.com

Portrait and all wines

Sparkling winerosébrutCorvina VeroneseMolinaraRondinella

Bardolino Chiaretto “001” brut

Italy

Veneto ↳ Bardolino • Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC)

13 % vol alcohol

14🯅

Tasted on 6 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Onion red. Fine, slowly rising perlage. Fruity scent of raspberry and strawberry. Elegant and delicate. Good length and persistence.

Guerrieri Rizzardi

Strada Campazzi
37011 Bardolino
Italy
Phone: +39 045 7210028
Internet: www.guerrieri-rizzardi.it
E‑mail: mail@guerrieri-rizzardi.it

Portrait and all wines

Sparkling wineroséextra dryCorvina VeroneseMolinaraRondinellaSangiovese

Bardolino Chiaretto “Fior di Rosa” extra dry

Italy

Veneto ↳ Bardolino • Denominazione di origine protetta (DOP)

12 % vol alcohol

13🯅

Tasted on 6 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright purple pink. Delicate, slowly rising perlage. Superficial strawberry fruit, some raspberry. Floral hints, distinct sweetness, charming, without corners and edges. Ordinary to good length.

Famiglia Olivini

Località Demesse Vecchie, 2
25015 Desenzano del Garda
Italy
Phone: +39 030 9910268
Fax: +39 030 9108961
Internet: www.famigliaolivini.com
E‑mail: info@famigliaolivini.com

Portrait and all wines

Sparkling winerosébrutBarbera NeraGroppello BiancoMarzeminoSangiovese

2016 Garda brut

Italy

Garda • Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC)

Lot number 17719 • 12.5 % vol alcohol

13.5🯅

Tasted on 6 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Salmon pink. Delicate, red-berry scent with a fine almond aroma. Fine, slowly rising perlage. Foreground fruity, charming, harmonious. It lacks a little complexity and depth. Ordinary to good length.

Perla del Garda

Via Fenil Vecchio, 9
25017 Lonato del Garda
Italy
Phone: +39 030 9103109
Internet: www.perladelgarda.it
E‑mail: info@perladelgarda.it

Portrait and all wines

Sparkling winewhiteextra brutChardonnay

“Perla del Garda” Chardonnay extra brut

Italy

Garda • Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC)

12.5 % vol alcohol

15🯅

Tasted on 6 June 2020 by Werner Elflein

Greenish straw yellow. Fine, rapidly rising perlage. Scent of light citrus fruits. Delicately creamy on the palate, well recognisable as a pure Chardonnay. Very good length.

Symbols
🯅The rating of the wine is based on a single taster. The taster is named in the context of the rating. The tasting was either open or blind. In case of a blind tasting, it is explicitly labelled as such.
🯅🯅The rating of the wine is based on two tasters. The tasters are named in the context of the rating. The tasting was carried out according to the four-eyes principle, in which both tasters agree on a joint rating.
🯅🯅🯅The rating is based on a tasting by our jury and indicates the Mean value calculated by us from the individual ratings of the tasters. Our mean value is based on the median.
The wine was evaluated in a blind tasting. We have strict rules for blind tastings. The tasters do not receive any information that would allow them to identify the wines. The tasters are only given access to further information that goes beyond the subject matter if it is absolutely necessary for understanding the wines.
🕓We only had limited time to taste the wine  - typically during an open tasting event, such as a wine fair. It was therefore not possible to observe the development of the wine in the glass over a longer period of time. The informative value of our rating may therefore be limited under certain circumstances.
The wine was tasted as a barrel sample or before an official test number (Amtliche Prüfungsnummer or Staatliche Prüfnummer) was issued. We only accept samples of unfilled wines in exceptional cases, and then only if we can assume sufficient stability in the bottle for a period of at least three months.
During our tasting, the wine showed conspicuous sensory characteristics. This does not necessarily have to be a wine fault. We categorise the quality and quantity of the abnormality and include it in the rating. Wine faults such as cork taint or an atypical ageing generally lead to a complete rejection.
Tastings that refer to the same bottle of a wine are visually summarised by a dotted line.