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Pascal Oberhofer takes off

Generation change in the traditional Palatinate winery

9 June 2020
Werner Elflein

pascal-oberhofer-startet-durch.jpgImage: Deutsches Weininstitut
Almond blossom in the Palatinate

At the time of the French Revolution, they were almost 200 years old. The vines in the Rhodt Rosengarten, mainly Gewürztraminer, are still standing today. The phylloxera and two world wars could not harm them.

The Oberhofer family, whose ancestors once came to the Palatinate from South Tyrol, owns what is probably the world's oldest vineyard still in production. The Oberhofers have been cultivating their vineyards organically since 2008. This will not change in the next generation – step by step, the 25-year-old junior Pascal is taking over the business.

The animating wines of the talented Pascal Oberhofer are ambitious, but at the same time down-to-earth. Concentration is subordinated to drinking pleasure. It remains a matter of taste whether the dry Gewürztraminer from the Edesheim Forst is not a little too light among the still young 2019s. In any case, the white wines, especially those from the Pinot varieties, succeed in the balancing act between delicate creamy fullness and lightness on the one hand, and the combination of fine, vibrating acidity with ripe fruit aromas on the other.

Pascal Oberhofer proves that uncomplicatedness can be harmonised with complexity and does not necessarily have to end in banality.

The fine, vanilla-scented 2018 Chardonnay from the Edesheim Madonnenhöhe reminded us of a high-class Chablis. We also found Francophile hints in the two 2017 Pinot Noirs from the Edesheim vineyards Am Kirchberg and Apfelgarten. Especially in the case of the Apfelgarten (which is still in the process of being officially registered as a so called Gewann), the use of new wood reminded us strikingly of the style of the Jean Stodden winery in the Ahr valley. The still very distinctive tannins definitely need time. With several years of ripeness, however, the advantage of the Apfelgarten over the Kirchberg should increase.

We would like to pay special tribute to the bone-dry rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. We rarely find so much clarity and precision in a wine of this category.

The wines at a glance

Oberhofer

Am Linsenberg 1
67483 Edesheim
Germany
Phone: +49 6323 944911
Fax: +49 6323 944949
Internet: www.weingutoberhofer.de
E‑mail: info@weingutoberhofer.de

Portrait and all wines

WinewhitedryRoter Traminer

2019 Edesheim Forst Gewürztraminer Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523 4 20 • 12.5 % vol alcohol

14🯅

Tasted on 6 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Pale yellow. Slender, in front of the grape variety background rather reserved rose scent. Aromatic on the palate with an aromatic attack, later on the tongue with a rather discreet fruit. Currently still clearly marked by carbonic acid. Needs several hours of air to open up. Good length. Delicately creamy finish.

WinewhitedryAuxerrois

2019 Edesheim Rosengarten Auxerrois Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523 7 20 • 12.5 % vol alcohol

15🯅

Tasted on 25 April 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright yellow with straw yellow accents. Slender, discreetly buttery bouquet with fine notes of green apple and a hint of vanilla. On the tongue with a lively attack, animating play and ripe, well-integrated acidity. Very long and quite persistent. Presents itself already in its youthful phase quite accessible.

WinewhitedryWeißer Riesling

2019 Riesling Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523 11 20 • 12.5 % vol alcohol

15.5🯅

Tasted on 24 April 2020 by Werner Elflein

Brilliant, bright and reflective yellow. Still youthful nose, marked by the bottling. Characterful and gripping, uncompromisingly dry Riesling with vital, vibrant acidity and striking minerality. Shows aromas of green apple after treatment in the Ovarius decanter. Spicy and piquant, with a long finish.

WinewhitedryRuländer

2019 Grauer Burgunder Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523 14 20 • 12 % vol alcohol

14🯅

Tasted on 7 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Pale yellow with straw yellow reflections. Fragrance of green apple with delicate vanilla notes. In the mouth with a lot of freshness and slim Pinot Gris aroma. Focuses on lightness and uncomplicatedness. Good length.

WinewhitedrySauvignon Blanc

2019 Sauvignon Blanc Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523 12 20 • 12.5 % vol alcohol

16🯅

Tasted on 13 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright, white-golden shining lemon yellow. Bouquet rich in aromas and marked by the pyrazines of the grape variety, with scents of gooseberry and grapefruit. On the tongue, tropical and citrus fruits, especially pineapple, join in. It is more reminiscent of the New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs than of the Loire, but its style is not clear. Animating acidity. Very dry. Long and persistent.

WinerosédryCabernet SauvignonMerlot

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot Rosé Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523 21 20 • 12 % vol alcohol

15.5🯅

Tasted on 11 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Salmon pink. Fruity, slightly acidic scent of nectarine and pink grapefruit. Grasping, with persistent aroma and animating freshness. Uncompromisingly dry taste. Very long and persistent. A Rosé from the picture book.

WinewhitesweetWeißer Riesling

2019 Hainfeld Kapelle Riesling Kabinett

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523 10 20 • 8.5 % vol alcohol

14.5🯅

Tasted on 29 April 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright yellow. Delicately spicy, in nuances also delicately smoky fragrance with hints of orange. Juicy Riesling with sweet-sour, quite expressive fruit, animating play, integrated acidity and good length.

WinewhitedryWeißer Burgunder

2018 Edesheim Rosengarten Weißer Burgunder Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523 30 19 • 13 % vol alcohol

15🯅

Tasted on 25 April 2020 by Werner Elflein

Medium yellow with a straw yellow touch. Fine, buttery, serious vanilla scent without any noteworthy fruit component. Lines the mouth without appearing ponderous. Lives from an excellent balance of all taste parameters and radiates a great inner calm. Very good length and persistence.

WinewhitedryChardonnay

2018 Edesheim Madonnenhöhe Chardonnay Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523 27 19 • 14 % vol alcohol

17🯅

Tasted on 5 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright straw yellow with golden reflections. Finest barrique notes with clear vanilla aromas and nuances of stone fruit. Consistent from nose to finish. Good presence on the palate with excellent alcohol. Quiet but decisive, without any heaviness. Lively acidity. Very long and persistent. Has style and substance. Reminiscent in style of a high class Chablis.

WinereddryBlauer Spätburgunder

2017 Edesheim Am Kirchberg Spätburgunder Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523  25 19 • 13 % vol alcohol

16🯅

Tasted on 2 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Brilliant dark garnet red with medium transparency. In the nose clear barrique note. Slightly sweetish fragrance with aromas of sour cherry, cranberry and cranberry jam. On the tongue still undeveloped with pithy, partly still astringent tannins, which however, after contact with air, indicate a high tannin quality. Vital and invigorating acidity, very good length. From 2025 on, the time window for the enjoyment of this ambitious Pinot Noir should open.

WinereddryBlauer Spätburgunder

2017 Apfelgarten Spätburgunder Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523  26 19 • 13 % vol alcohol

16.5🯅

Tasted on 2 May 2020 by Werner Elflein

Dark and almost opaque garnet red. In the nose clear roasted aromas with a chocolaty touch. Concentrated scent of cranberry and blackberry. On the tongue dense and still quite distinctive tannins, which are however more fine-grained than in the similar Pinot Noir “Am Kirchberg”. Stylistically, they and the use of wood are reminiscent of Jean Stodden, so that a long maturing time of at least ten to 15 years can be assumed here as well. Very good length.

WinereddryCabernet Sauvignon

2016 Dierbach Kirchhöhe Cabernet Sauvignon Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Pfalz • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 5021523  40 18 • 13.5 % vol alcohol

14.5🯅

Tasted on 27 April 2020 by Werner Elflein

Slightly transparent black red. Opens only after prolonged aeration. Scent of red currant, ratatouille and milk chocolate. On the tongue with coarse and fine grained, still slightly astringent tannins, stable acidity, again some milk chocolate and a fine herbal note. Good length.

Symbols
🯅The rating of the wine is based on a single taster. The taster is named in the context of the rating. The tasting was either open or blind. In case of a blind tasting, it is explicitly labelled as such.
🯅🯅The rating of the wine is based on two tasters. The tasters are named in the context of the rating. The tasting was carried out according to the four-eyes principle, in which both tasters agree on a joint rating.
🯅🯅🯅The rating is based on a tasting by our jury and indicates the Mean value calculated by us from the individual ratings of the tasters. Our mean value is based on the median.
⚖The wine was evaluated in a blind tasting. We have strict rules for blind tastings. The tasters do not receive any information that would allow them to identify the wines. The tasters are only given access to further information that goes beyond the subject matter if it is absolutely necessary for understanding the wines.
🕓We only had limited time to taste the wine  - typically during an open tasting event, such as a wine fair. It was therefore not possible to observe the development of the wine in the glass over a longer period of time. The informative value of our rating may therefore be limited under certain circumstances.
⛬The wine was tasted as a barrel sample or before an official test number (Amtliche Prüfungsnummer or Staatliche Prüfnummer) was issued. We only accept samples of unfilled wines in exceptional cases, and then only if we can assume sufficient stability in the bottle for a period of at least three months.
▲During our tasting, the wine showed conspicuous sensory characteristics. This does not necessarily have to be a wine fault. We categorise the quality and quantity of the abnormality and include it in the rating. Wine faults such as cork taint or an atypical ageing generally lead to a complete rejection.
Tastings that refer to the same bottle of a wine are visually summarised by a dotted line.