Martin Gerlach's restart on the Lower Moselle

A first stocktaking after the merger of Gerlachs Mühle and von Schleinitz

3 February 2020
Werner Elflein

Ruin of the Kobern Niederburg

Martin Gerlach was and is the owner of the Gerlachs Mühle winery on the Lower Moselle. When the possibility of a merger with the traditional von Schleinitz estate presented itself to him two years ago, he jumped at the chance. The “merger on trial” planned for the first few years, however, already promises to be a complete success. With the first vintage of the two united wineries, Martin Gerlach has already made a remarkable restart.

We still know Martin Gerlach from a time when he preferred to keep his hands off spontaneous fermentation, which he disliked, and his wines were good but not ambitious to the last degree. We were all the more surprised by his current collection, the first from the enlarged winery. One senses that Martin Gerlach now wants much more than before. The new environment seems to inspire him, and spontaneous fermentation has become one of his best friends.

The Rieslings we tasted from the hot 2018 vintage taste creamy and have only little acidity. Subsequent acidification of the musts would have been possible by law, but Martin Gerlach did not make use of this measure.

Among the dry and off-dry Rieslings, the Mursberg stands out, and we think it will do even better in the long term than the Koberner Uhlen R (Roth-Lay). The two noble sweet Auslesen are stylistically quite different. While the Uhu embodies the traditional Auslese with moderate residual sugar, its counterpart stands more for a modern type that prefers residual sugar more than higher alcohol degrees.

We rubbed our eyes at the unexpectedly high quality of the Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) compared to its pricing. We also liked the Frühburgunder (Pinot Noir Précoce) very much.

The wines at a glance

Gerlachs Mühle

Kirchstraße 15–17
56330 Kobern-Gondorf
Germany
Phone: +49 2607 972020
Fax: +49 2607 972022
Internet: www.vonschleinitz.de
E‑mail: info@vonschleinitz.de

Portrait and all wines

Winewhitedry to off-dryWeißer Riesling

2018 Kattenes Steinchen Mursberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 15 19 • 12.5 % vol alcohol

16.5🯅

Tasted on 9 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

In his book “Terrassenkultur an der Untermosel” (Edition Krieger, 2003) Joachim Krieger writes about the Katteneser Steinchen: “This is also the location of the steepest part of the terraces, the steep Mursberg with its fine blue slate soil, which produces very low but sometimes very fine yield in dry years (with luxuriant peach aromas).” 2018 is a dry year, and in fact, in addition to fully ripe citrus aromas, it is also a peach scent that is both crystal clear and omnipresent, which rises from the bright yellow glass into the nose. In the mouth with juicy freshness and creamy texture. A filigree Riesling fruit dances on the tongue and counteracts perfectly the fullness reminiscent of a vintage like 2003. The residual sugar is very well balanced and should be the guarantor for an excellent maturity of the wine. Very good length.

Winewhitedry to off-dryWeißer Riesling

2018 “Stehkragen” Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 14 19 • 13 % vol alcohol

16🯅

Tasted on 19 January 2020 by Werner Elflein

Delicate yellow-green. The nose is characterized by a protruding fruitiness with scents of ripe, light, partly tropical fruits. Juicy and animating on the tongue. Nuanced, fine and elegant acidity. Gruff minerality. Very good length.

von Schleinitz

Kirchstraße 15–17
56330 Kobern-Gondorf
Germany
Phone: +49 2607 972020
Fax: +49 2607 972022
Internet: www.vonschleinitz.de
E‑mail: info@vonschleinitz.de

Portrait and all wines

WinereddryBlauer Frühburgunder

2018 Frühburgunder Qualitätswein trocken

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 24 19 • 12.5 % vol alcohol

15🯅

Tasted on 23 November 2019 by Werner Elflein

Transparent cherry garnet. Spicy, still slightly lactic scent of sour cherry, blueberry and red fruit jelly with ethereal component. Very present on the palate and on the tongue. With moderate alcohol quite concentrated and with fine, velvety and sandy tannins. Very good length and excellent persistence.

Winewhitedry to off-dryWeißer Riesling

2018 Kobern Uhlen Riesling R Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 7 19 • 13 % vol alcohol

16🯅

Tasted on 21 November 2019 by Werner Elflein

Straw yellow to white gold. Ripe stone fruit scent, initially flanked by green citrus notes, after prolonged air contact in the second nose clear hints of fine marzipan. Complex aromas of spontaneous fermentation. On the palate with a powerful and intense attack. With the creamy, banana texture typical of a hot vintage. Martin Gerlach's Riesling from the Rothlay part of the Koberner Uhlen, which tastes off-dry, does not try to make up for the apparent lack of acidity, and even the quite concise mineral spice is unable to conceal or even substitute the “missing” acidity. Rather, in the mouth the Riesling from Koberner Uhlen makes clear from the start that it feels more strongly connected to its vintage and its origin than to the taste ideal of those who only see Riesling as a refreshing drink in the tradition of Coca Cola, brimming with acidity. Very good length, pronounced creaminess also in the finish.

Winewhitedry to off-dryWeißer Riesling

2018 Kobern Uhlen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 5 19 • 13 % vol alcohol

15🯅

Tasted on 30 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Greenish yellow. Herbal and spicy scent of passion fruit. On the tongue with a creamy opening. Fine juicy, good balance with moderate acidity and integrated alcohol. Very long and persistent.

Winewhitedry to off-dryWeißer Riesling

2018 Kobern Weißenberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 10 19 • 12.5 % vol alcohol

16🯅

Tasted on 3 January 2020 by Werner Elflein

Bright straw yellow, rich in reflections. Fruity bouquet with fine herbaceous components and aromas of highly ripe lemon. On the palate creamy and, typical for the vintage, only with little acidity. Continues on the tongue over the entire length, which was already noticeable in the nose. Off-dry taste. Recognizable excellent grape material from a great vineyard. Very lasting.

Winewhitedry to off-dryWeißer Burgunder

2018 Weißburgunder Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 4 19 • 13.5 % vol alcohol

15.5🯅

Tasted on 5 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Light straw yellow. In the nose a little butter and above all vanilla. On the palate powerful, with all strength and opulence but with a lot of freshness and vitality. Spicy and dry. Very good length and persistence.

Winewhitedry to off-dryRuländer

2018 Grauburgunder Qualitätswein

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 1 19 • 13.5 % vol alcohol

16.5🯅

Tasted on 5 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Straw yellow with pale pink shimmer. Strong fragrance of Galia melon. Very powerful and with warming, but well integrated alcohol. Full-bodied Pinot Gris, which, despite its opulence, does not appear to be nearly ponderous. Clear honey spice and sweetness on the tongue. Dry taste. Harmonious and well balanced, with excellent length and reverberation for minutes.

Winewhiteoff-dryWeißer Riesling

2018 “Apollo” Riesling Qualitätswein feinherb

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 20 19 • 12 % vol alcohol

15🯅

Tasted on 16 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Light golden yellow. Fruity nose with a striking scent of passion fruit. On the tongue it shows a delicate creaminess, fine sweetness, but also hardly acidity, which makes it appear a little broad in its structure. Nevertheless very well balanced, dormant in itself, and with an off-dry taste and very good length.

WinewhitesweetWeißer Riesling

2018 Kobern Uhlen Riesling Kabinett

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 6 19 • 11 % vol alcohol

15.5🯅

Tasted on 19 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Sparkling yellow with golden reflections. Clear spontaneous aromas on the nose with fine scents of peach and white gooseberry with hints of carambola. Full-bodied and juicy. Good balance between moderate sweetness and only slightly perceptible, delicate, elegant acidity. More in the style of a Spätlese than a Kabinett. Good length.

WinewhitesweetWeißer Riesling

2018 Kobern Weißenberg Riesling Auslese

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 8 19 • 8 % vol alcohol

16.5🯅

Tasted on 4 December 2019 by Werner Elflein

Bright golden yellow with strikingly high viscosity. Clear, pure berry scent. Animating, excellently balanced and juicy Auslese with delicate creaminess, banana texture, finest acidity and hearty sweetness. Very good length and persistence.

WinewhitesweetWeißer Riesling

2018 Kobern Weißenberg Uhu Riesling Auslese

Germany

Mosel • Geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung (g. U.)

Amtliche Prüfungsnummer 1649017 17 19 • 10 % vol alcohol

16.5🯅

Tasted on 19 January 2020 by Werner Elflein

Green gold. Animating, concentrated scent of slate and ripe yellow, sometimes tropical fruits. On the tongue elegant, fine and subtle play of acidity with creamy fruitiness and well-balanced sweetness. Rather traditional Auslese style, reminiscent of earlier hot vintages like 1959. Very good length.

Symbols

🯅	The rating of the wine is based on a single taster. The taster is named in the context of the rating. The tasting was either open or blind. In case of a blind tasting, it is explicitly labelled as such.
🯅🯅	The rating of the wine is based on two tasters. The tasters are named in the context of the rating. The tasting was carried out according to the four-eyes principle, in which both tasters agree on a joint rating.
🯅🯅🯅	The rating is based on a tasting by our jury and indicates the Mean value calculated by us from the individual ratings of the tasters. Our mean value is based on the median.
⚖	The wine was evaluated in a blind tasting. We have strict rules for blind tastings. The tasters do not receive any information that would allow them to identify the wines. The tasters are only given access to further information that goes beyond the subject matter if it is absolutely necessary for understanding the wines.
🕓	We only had limited time to taste the wine - typically during an open tasting event, such as a wine fair. It was therefore not possible to observe the development of the wine in the glass over a longer period of time. The informative value of our rating may therefore be limited under certain circumstances.
⛬	The wine was tasted as a barrel sample or before an official test number (Amtliche Prüfungsnummer or Staatliche Prüfnummer) was issued. We only accept samples of unfilled wines in exceptional cases, and then only if we can assume sufficient stability in the bottle for a period of at least three months.
▲	During our tasting, the wine showed conspicuous sensory characteristics. This does not necessarily have to be a wine fault. We categorise the quality and quantity of the abnormality and include it in the rating. Wine faults such as cork taint or an atypical ageing generally lead to a complete rejection.
	Tastings that refer to the same bottle of a wine are visually summarised by a dotted line.

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Martin Gerlach's restart on the Lower Moselle

A first stocktaking after the merger of Gerlachs Mühle and von Schleinitz

The wines at a glance

Symbols