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Moselschiefer

Moselschiefer · Bild: Deutsches Weininstitut

Steinmetz kann's nicht lassen

Erste Einblicke in die neue Kollektion des Brauneberger Spitzenweinguts Günther Steinmetz

Im vergangenen Herbst hatte uns Stefan Steinmetz bereits seine herausragenden 2018er Rieslinge vorgestellt. Nun legt er nach und präsentiert uns erste Füllungen des neuen Jahrgangs und seinen ersten Orange-Wein, der erst vor kurzem in den Verkauf kam.

Mit dem in der Literflasche gefüllten Pinot gris zeigt Steinmetz, dass er auch ein Händchen für weiße Burgundersorten hat. Unprätentiös, aber noch lange nicht beliebig, setzt dieser Wein in seiner Preiskategorie Maßstäbe.

Kompromisslos anders als seine sonstigen Weißweine ist Steinmetz' erster Orange-Wein, der aus Chardonnaytrauben bereitete „Virgo Natura“. Maischegärung, Schwefelgabe lediglich im Moststadium, langes Hefelager und unfiltrierte Füllung ergeben einen individuellen und ausdrucksvollen Wein, der im Gegensatz zu anderen so genannten Naturals nicht die Grenze zur Fehlerhaftigkeit auslotet. Auf überraschend charmante wie ausgewogene Weise beweist er, welch hohes Niveau Orange-Weine erreichen können. „Virgo Natura“ dürfte nicht nur Freaks, sondern auch Ottonormaltrinker begeistern.

Zu seiner ohnehin schwer zu bewirtschaftenden Vielfalt an Einzellagen, die sich von Mülheim bis Piesport erstrecken, kamen im vergangenen Jahr Parzellen in der weltberühmten Wehlener Sonnenuhr und im steilen Wiltinger Rosenberg an der Saar hinzu. Die Sonnenuhr debüttiert 2019 bei Steinmetz in Form eines eleganten, klassischen Kabinetts, der Rosenberg mit der Zusatzbezeichnung „Alte Reben Saar“ als Qualitätswein mit trockenem Geschmacksbild.

Wie bereits im Vorjahr haben wir auch 2019 eine Schwäche für den hochmineralischen Veldenzer Grafschafter Sonnenberg Riesling „Alte Reben“, der diesmal allerdings deutlich feinherb ausfällt.

Mit den seit Jahren immer besser werdenden edelsüßen Auslesen setzt sich Stefan Steinmetz auch bei den Hochprädikaten in der internationalen Spitze fest. 2019 brilliert er mit gleich drei Goldkapsel-Auslesen, die mit wenig Botrytis und einer lebendigen Säure schon jetzt Trinkfreunde bereiten, obgleich ihnen eine Reife von mindestens zwei Jahrzehnten sehr gut zu Gesicht stünde.

Wir sind schon jetzt sehr gespannt auf die restliche Kollektion, von der wir ausgehen, dass sie für das Weingut die Tür zum Olymp der weltbesten Weinerzeuger noch um einen weiteren Spalt öffnen wird.

Die Weine im Überblick

Günther Steinmetz

Moselweinstraße 154 • 54472 Brauneberg • Germany

Telefon: +49 6534 751 • Telefax: +49 6534 940921 • Internet: www.weingut-guenther-steinmetz.de • E-Mail: info@weingut-guenther-steinmetz.de

2019er Brauneberger Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 2 20 • 12,5% Alkohol

16

von Werner Elflein am 24. April 2020 offen verkostet

Bright yellow. Complex nose, marked by spontaneous fermentation, with a delicate planty, green-leaved slate aroma of wild strawberry and some green apple. Tense attack on the palate. Perfect balance with vibrating acidity and a touch of sweetness. Delicate, juicy Riesling with style and high animation factor. Very good length.

2019er Wiltinger Rosenberg Riesling Qualitätswein Alte Reben Saar

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 9 20 • 12,0% Alkohol

17,5

von Werner Elflein am 26. April 2020 offen verkostet

Light lemon yellow. Cool, yeasty and extremely mineral Riesling scent with green herbal nuances. Slender and finesse-rich Saar Riesling in classic, traditional style. Enormous spice and piquancy on the palate. Vibrant, ripe acidity. Lasting, razor-sharp slate minerality. Great length. Reminiscent of the great Cool Climate Rieslings from the time before global warming.

2019er Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 10 20 • 12,0% Alkohol

16,5

von Werner Elflein am 1. Mai 2020 offen verkostet

Bright yellow with golden white and straw yellow reflections. Currently still a little closed, restrained fruity nose with aromas of ripe yellow fruits and already recognizable mineral foundation. In the mouth fine acidity against a background of high maturity and density. Green herbal notes and a distinctive slate minerality still need time to give the wine its final contours. However, after a longer contact with air it already shows what it is made of. Good to very good length.

2019er Pinot gris Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 12 20 • 11,0% Alkohol

15,5

von Werner Elflein am 8. Mai 2020 offen verkostet

Lemon yellow. Typical Pinot gris nose with scents of green apple and wild strawberry. Delicately creamy fruitiness, dry taste, balanced ratio of sweetness and acidity. Harmonious, very long.

2019er Veldenzer Grafschafter Sonnenberg Riesling Qualitätswein feinherb Alte Reben

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 11 20 • 13,5% Alkohol

17,5

von Werner Elflein am 15. Mai 2020 offen verkostet

Greenish straw yellow. Ethereal bouquet with aromas of eucalyptus, mint, avocado and ripe yellow pome fruit. Dense, mineral concentrate in the style of an off-dry Auslese. Despite 13.5% alcohol, it does not appear opulent. Fine, excellently balanced acidity. Delicate sweetness. Currently still closed, but after treatment in the Ovarius decanter its undeniable greatness is indicated. Very long and persistent.

2019er Dhroner Hofberg GD Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 21 20 • 12,0% Alkohol

18,5

von Werner Elflein am 28. August 2020 offen verkostet

Bright yellow. Initially still very fruity in the nose. Protruding scent of peach and passion fruit, underlaid with the distinctive slate spice typical for the complex soil structure of the Dhroner Hofberg. Impressive on the palate with a great accord of elegance, fineness, creaminess, most delicate sweetness and ripe, integrated acidity that is piquant on the long finish. With air, the opulent fruit aromas retreat somewhat and give way to the minerality. The wine becomes even deeper and more complex than it presented itself at the beginning. Finely spiced notes of wild herbs complete the taste and already indicate the great future potential.

2019er Neumagener Rosengärtchen von den Terrassen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 20 20 • 13,0% Alkohol

19

von Werner Elflein am 2. September 2020 offen verkostet

Greenish yellow with white gold. Despite the obviously enormous concentration – Stefan Steinmetz speaks of a yield of 20 hectoliters per hectare – the Riesling from the Rosengärtchen does not captivate with its expansive, but rather quiet and subtle aromas. The nose is highly mineral – reminiscent of pureed slate – with complex scent of black currant, mint, green tea, green apple and a hint of star fruit. Shows the cool-climate facets of the vintage, unfolds on the tongue without any weight. Even 13% alcohol seems to be absent in this context. Focused on the essentials and with great depth. Ripe, harmonious acidity, already excellently integrated at this early stage, dry taste. Excellent length and sustainability.

2019er Piesporter Grafenberg GP Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 16 20 • 12,5% Alkohol

18,5

von Werner Elflein am 4. September 2020 offen verkostet

Greenish yellow. In the still slightly reductive and restrained nose hints of citrus, especially pomelo, grapefruit and nectarine skin. Floral component reminiscent of white flowers. Puristic and dust-dry on the tongue, with a striking but mature acidity and partly planty, partly again floral notes. Highly mineral, comparisons with rock flour are obvious. Very long and persistent.

2019er Piesporter Treppchen von den Terrassen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 19 20 • 13,5% Alkohol

19

von Werner Elflein am 7. September 2020 offen verkostet

Greenish yellow with white gold. Reserved scent of starfruit with a distinctly reminiscent but still undeveloped minerality. Strong stature with perfectly integrated alcohol. Opulent only on the surface, already possesses a great inner harmony. Elegant, mature, thoroughly vital acidity. Dry taste. Excellent length. Currently still very closed. A rough diamond that needs ten years of maturation and should then be one of the undisputed Riesling monuments of the vintage.

2019er Wintricher Ohligsberg GW Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 17 20 • 13,5% Alkohol

18

von Werner Elflein am 3. September 2020 offen verkostet

At present extremely closed, but will provide the first deeper insights after treatment in the Ovarius decanter. Bright straw yellow with green and golden reflections. In the nose, which is still capable of developing in terms of complexity, a broad spectrum of aromas is already evident with yellow plum, peach, cantaloupe melon and green apple. A powerful attack on the tongue with spicy notes of white pepper. Slightly vibrating, ripe and harmoniously integrated acidity. Dry taste. Can easily compensate the alcohol of 13,5%. Long aftertaste. Requires several years of bottle ageing.

2019er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 3 20 • 8,0% Alkohol

17,5

von Werner Elflein am 28. April 2020 offen verkostet

Lemon yellow with white-golden reflections. Fine, elegant and moderately fruity scent of bitter orange and vineyard peach. Full-bodied cabinet with ripe, vibrating acidity that literally explodes in the mouth, almost perfectly balanced fruit sweetness, outstanding depth and excellent, very long finish. An investment for the future, in the tradition of great Rieslings from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr.

2019er Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 5 20 • 7,0% Alkohol

18,5

von Werner Elflein am 23. Mai 2020 offen verkostet

Reflective, saturated lemon yellow. Lush and ripe fruit aromas on the nose, which are primarily reminiscent of star fruit and tropical citrus fruits, but also somewhat of pear, pineapple and black currant. Full and juicy on the tongue, not stingy with sweetness. Finesse-rich, fine and complex acidity. From the type rather an Auslese than a Spätlese. Excellent length and sustainability. Should be allowed to mature for at least ten, better 15 years.

2019er Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 6 20 • 7,5% Alkohol

19

von Werner Elflein am 1. Mai 2020 offen verkostet

Light white gold with green-yellow reflections. Highly elegant and very fine, cool scent of ripe citrus and tropical fruits. Focused, juicy and almost weightless on the tongue, with razor-sharp contours, great finesse and breathtaking play of not too lush sweetness and radiant but ripe acidity. Dancing in the style of a cool-climate Riesling and with perfect balance to the furthest corners of the mouth. Outstanding length. A masterpiece of German sweet wine culture.

2019er Wintricher Geierslay Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 7 20 • 8,0% Alkohol

18

von Werner Elflein am 12. Mai 2020 offen verkostet

Pale green light golden yellow. In the bouquet lush aromas of dried citrus fruits and a fine berry note. It almost seems paradoxical that this Auslese from a cooler vineyard is more reminiscent of a warm summer than its counterpart from the Brauneberger Juffer, which is more in keeping with the ideal of a cool-climate Riesling. Stefan Steinmetz explains this phenomenon comprehensibly and conclusively with sunburn and consequently lowest yields with a high concentration of berries. The playful acidity falls a little behind in view of the fruity opulence, almost reminiscent of a Beerenauslese, but balances the sweetness very well. Excellent length. Probably needs a lot of time to mature in the bottle.

2019er Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 8 20 • 8,0% Alkohol

19

von Werner Elflein am 20. Mai 2020 offen verkostet

Yellowish white gold. Highly concentrated berry fragrance with aromas of candied citrus fruits and a hint of herbal sugar. On the tongue with breathtaking fruit-acid play. Dense and filigree at the same time. Vibrating and full of finesse. Excellent length, great sustainability. Will probably reach maturity only with the retirement age of our great-grandsons.

2019er Kestener Paulinsberg Riesling Auslese feinherb Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 18 20 • 13,0% Alkohol

18

von Werner Elflein am 27. August 2020 offen verkostet

Greenish yellow with white gold. Concentrated, berry scent of peach stone, star fruit and some wild strawberry. With aeration also hints of green apple. Powerful attack in the mouth with quite noticeable alcohol. With all opulence not too expansive, with fine creaminess, well perceptible sweetness, elegant acidity and mineral notes in the very long finish. Still very young, in its current stage of maturation it only opens up after prolonged contact with air and then reveals the enormous potential it holds. A monument for the next decades, which still needs time to find perfect inner harmony.

2018er „Virgo Natura“ Chardonnay

Germany ↳ Landwein der Mosel

L 01/20 • 13,0% Alkohol

17

von Werner Elflein am 4. Mai 2020 offen verkostet

Orange gold. Deep, floral scent of elderberry and fruit. The carbonic acid still perceptible after opening the bottle closed with a crown cap proves to be volatile. On the tongue it is creamy, with a soft melt and high-quality phenols that are not at all bitter. Elegant and fine, despite well packaged (or let's better say: hidden) 13% alcohol. Rich aromas, reminiscent of ancient yellow apple and pear varieties, accompanied by a subtle spice of blossom honey. Still well recognizable as Chardonnay. Excellent length.