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Ab dem Jahrgang 2019 im Lagenportfolio von Stefan Steinmetz: die Wehlener Sonnenuhr

Ab dem Jahrgang 2019 im Lagenportfolio von Stefan Steinmetz: die Wehlener Sonnenuhr · Bild: Werner Elflein

Heiß, aber nicht fettig

Wie Stefan Steinmetz' Rieslinge den Widrigkeiten des Hitze-Jahrgangs 2018 trotzen

An manchen Tagen erinnerten die Tagestemperaturen im Sommer 2018 an das Jahr 2003. Neue Hitzerekorde ließen für den Weinbau zunächst Schlimmes befürchten. Doch glücklicherweise reichten die Flüssigkeitsreserven in den Böden meist aus, um die Reben mit ausreichend Wasser zu versorgen. Die Weinlese brachte (aus wirtschaftlicher Sicht erfreulich) hohe Erträge, für die Erzeugung großer trockener Rieslinge war der Jahrgang jedoch nicht prädestiniert. Hohen Mostgewichten und einer damit einhergehenden wenig moderaten Alkoholausbeute standen geringe Säure- und Extraktwerte gegenüber. Entsprechend zurückhaltend reagierten Teile der Fachwelt bei der Vorstellung der trockenen 2018er Rieslinge bei der diesjährigen ProWein. Doch in Insiderkreisen fiel immer wieder ein Name: Stefan Steinmetz. Für viele weinverrückte Mosel-Enthusiasten zählt der Winzer aus Brauneberg schon seit langem zu den Besten seines Faches. Nun ging das Gerücht um, Steinmetz habe 2018 erneut herausragende Rieslinge erzeugt, allen Widrigkeiten des Jahrgangs zum Trotz auch solche mit trockenem Geschmacksbild. Werner Elflein hat für weinfreaks.de die Rieslingkollektion des Ausnahmewinzers verkostet.

Sehr gute Weine hat bereits Vater Günther gemacht. Das Weingut in Brauneberg trägt weiterhin seinen Namen. Wann immer Stefan Steinmetz gereifte Weine aus der Schaffenszeit des Seniors präsentiert, besteht kein Zweifel, dass der kleine Familienbetrieb an der Mittelmosel lange Zeit nicht die ihm gebührende mediale Aufmerksamkeit erhalten hat.

Noch heute tut sich die Mainstream-Weinkritik mit den Rieslingen von Stefan Steinmetz ein wenig schwer. Erst nach und nach, mit einer Verzögerung von gut und gerne einem Jahrzehnt, reagieren die etablierten Weinführer. Jedoch scheint es gelegentlich so, als enthalte der eine oder andere Verkoster den Weinen weiterhin die eigentlich verdienten Höchstbewertungen vor. Dabei hat der ehrgeizige Brauneberger der selbsternannten, in vielen Fällen jedoch auch saturiertren Winzerelite aus dem Verband der Prädikatsweingüter längst den Rang abgelaufen.

Weil er alle seine Weine, auch den Riesling für die Literflasche, mit den kellereigenen Hefen vergärt, gibt es bei Stefan Steinmetz nur selten trockene Rieslinge. Meist bleiben sie in der Gärung bei einem Restzuckergehalt knapp oberhalb der gesetzlichen Höchstgrenze stehen. Dann schmecken sie dank ihrer in der Regel recht pikanten Säure zwar trocken, dürfen aber offiziell nicht so bezeichnet werden. Gilt Steinmetz seit jeher als ausgesprochener Spezialist für die Erzeugung charaktervoller Einzellagen-Rieslinge mit wenig Restzucker, sorgen heute zunehmend auch seine feinherben, frucht- und edelsüßen Rieslinge für Furore. Immer besser, weil feiner und eleganter, werden auch die Rotweine, allen voran die Spätburgunder.

Den Aufstieg in die Spitze der besten Weinmacher Deutschlands verdankt Stefan Steinmetz nicht zuletzt seinem Gespür für das, was die Franzosen Terroir nennen und hierzulande leider zu einem Mode- und inhaltsleeren Schlagwort verkommen ist. Lagen- und Jahrgangsunterschiede sind bei kaum einem anderen so transparent und nachvollziehbar wie bei ihm. Da ist es nur konsequent, dass es nicht jedes Jahr die nominell gleichen Weine gibt. Den Grand-Cru-Status, auf dem Etikett sichtbar durch ein „G“, gefolgt vom ersten Buchstaben des Ortsnamens, erlangen nur die jahrgangsbesten.

Mit der moderaten Vergrößerung seines Weinguts schöpft Stefan Steinmetz inzwischen aus einem einzigartigen Lagenportfolio. Verfügte er bereits vorher über Parzellen in Spitzenlagen wie der Brauneberger Juffer und Juffer-Sonnenuhr, dem Piesporter Goldtröpfchen oder, seit 2016, dem Neumagener Rosengärtchen, kam im vergangenen Jahr noch der Dhroner Großer Hengelberg als Monopollage hinzu. 2019 werden zudem erstmals die Wehlener Sonnenuhr und der Wiltinger Rosenberg auf dem Gutsetikett erscheinen.

Mit seinen Rieslingen aus dem Jahrgang 2018 setzt Stefan Steinmetz nach 2015, 2016 und 2017 die eigene Messlatte erneut ein ganzes Stück höher, scheinbar unbeeindruckt vom schwierigen Witterungsverlauf. Tatsächlich sind ihm im vergangenen Jahr die wahrscheinlich besten Rieslinge seiner bisherigen Winzerkarriere gelungen.

Augenfällig ist die große Bandbreite innerhalb der Kollektion. Die Rieslinge aus den kühleren Lagen sind saftig, besitzen bei aller Reife eine überraschend vitale Säure und könnten in dieser Form auch aus einem typischen Cool-Climate-Jahrgang stammen. Hingegen haben die wärmeren Lagen vornehmlich etwas weichere, cremigere Rieslinge hervorgebracht, die aber über so viel Substanz und mineralische Tiefe verfügen, dass die geringere Säure geschmacklich nicht wirklich ins Gewicht fällt. Selbst die opulenteren Rieslinge schweben über die Zunge, als würden sie von einer unsichtbaren Kraft getragen. Heiß, aber nicht fettig – mit diesen Worten lässt sich die 2018er Rieslingkollektion von Stefan Steinmetz zwar zugegebenermaßen ein wenig plakativ, aber treffend beschreiben.

Auf die Zugabe von Weinsäure, 2018 gesetzlich erlaubt, hat Stefan Steinmetz verzichtet. Vor allem seine alten Reben haben die Trockenheit und die Hitze des Sommers überraschend gut weggesteckt.

Der Riesling aus dem Lehmener Ausoniusstein ist als Projektwein in Zusammenarbeit mit Martin Gerlach aus Kobern-Gondorf an der Terrassenmosel entstanden.

Die Weine im Überblick

Steinmetz & Gerlach

Germany

2018er Lehmener Ausoniusstein Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 33 19 • 13,5% Alkohol

18,5

von Werner Elflein am 1. Oktober 2019 offen verkostet

Pure white gold with golden yellow reflections. Complex, subtly fruity and floral bouquet with fine aromas of strawberry, strawberry yoghurt, rhubarb and a hint of vanilla. On the palate the almost perfect synthesis of opulence and buoyant lightness. Even 13.5% alcohol does not give the impression of heaviness or opulence. An extremely present, green and herbaceous minerality completely substitutes the moderate, rather soft acidity of the vintage. At the same time it ensures a high degree of liveliness and conveys the perception of elegance and finesse when drunk, apparently in contrast to the monumental fullness and concentration. Outstanding length, very good persistence.

17,5

von Werner Elflein am 1. Juni 2019 offen verkostet

2018er „Liquid Fossil“ Katteneser Steinchen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 46 19 • 13,5% Alkohol

17

von Werner Elflein am 23. Dezember 2019 offen verkostet

Bright yellow with sparkling reflexes. Mineral nose with subtle aromas of yellow stone fruit and slate heated by the sun. Only after a good two seconds on the tongue does the power inherent in the wine emerge. However, the alcohol, which is certainly noticeable, is well integrated. Sensory extremely dry, but very balanced and despite its puristic character with charm. Challenging, but not disturbing. A good accompaniment to food and here even an alternative to a (high class) Chardonnay. Excellent length and sustainability.

Günther Steinmetz

Moselweinstraße 154 • 54472 Brauneberg • Germany

Telefon: +49 6534 751 • Telefax: +49 6534 940921 • Internet: www.weingut-guenther-steinmetz.de • E-Mail: info@weingut-guenther-steinmetz.de

2018er Brauneberger Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 10 19 • 12,0% Alkohol

16

von Werner Elflein am 17. August 2019 offen verkostet

Grey to lemon yellow. Still with distinct spontaneous aromas in the nose. Mineral scent of cassis and subtle hints of peach and nectarine. Touching on the palate, juicy and animating. Vibrating minerality and a freshness rare for the vintage. Very good length. Shows a significant improvement compared to the first tasting in June 2019.

14,5

von Werner Elflein am 1. Juni 2019 offen verkostet

2018er Piesporter Grafenberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 28 19 • 12,5% Alkohol

16,5

von Werner Elflein am 2. September 2019 offen verkostet

Greenish lemon yellow. Cool, delicate Riesling fragrance with red fruit accents. Juicy and clearly focused, also a little green herbaceous. Vital acidity. A border crosser between cool and hot climate, combining the good sides of both worlds. A little more charming and softer after about two hours of air contact. Excellent length and sustainability. An atypical representative of the 2018 vintage in the best sense of the word.

15,5

von Werner Elflein am 1. Juni 2019 offen verkostet

2018er Brauneberger Juffer GB Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 29 19 • 13,0% Alkohol

17,5

von Werner Elflein am 24. August 2019 offen verkostet

Brilliant lemon yellow. Dense and very fine scent, characterised by stone fruit, especially peach and peach stone, excellently balanced. With 13% alcohol everything but a lightweight, but the body is almost perfectly integrated into the creamy fruit fullness. Everything seems so conclusive and so natural that the question of acidity, which at best plays a secondary role here, does not even arise. A wine like silk on the palate and from a single source, soft and lasting.

16,5

von Werner Elflein am 1. Juni 2019 offen verkostet

2018er Dhroner Hofberg GD Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 30 19 • 13,5% Alkohol

18

von Werner Elflein am 21. September 2019 offen verkostet

Bright white gold. A wide bouquet of carambola and ripe citrus. On the palate, creamy opulence meets a filigree but at the same time very intense mineral play. Perceptible sweetness of an off-dry Riesling, moderately echoing acidity, discreet phenolic component. Expressive, with outstanding length and great persistence.

17

von Werner Elflein am 1. Juni 2019 offen verkostet

2018er Dhroner Großer Hengelberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 35 19 • 13,0% Alkohol

17,5

von Werner Elflein am 19. September 2019 offen verkostet

Light white gold. Dense bouquet of stone fruit, especially yellow apricot and highly ripe lemon. In the mouth with two halves. The first half is dominated by a creamy opulence. A fruity note and a mineralic, delicate astringent spice provide relief on the palate at the same time. Despite all the strength and fullness – the 13% alcohol is very well integrated, but cannot be discussed away either – not at all cumbersome or even baroque. With so much density and concentration the question of the acidity hardly arises, although it appears in the second half and at the latest in the impressively long finale, so to speak in the aftertime, finally nevertheless noticeably, more or less firmly coated. Enormous persistence on the tongue.

2018er Neumagener Rosengärtchen von den Terrassen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 36 19 • 12,0% Alkohol

18

von Werner Elflein am 1. September 2019 offen verkostet

Bright, white-golden tinge of yellow. Dense bouquet with aromas of fresh, homemade compote of ripe yellow apples. Also some mint. Surprisingly moderate alcohol content against the backdrop of exceptional concentration and creamy, full body. Fine, elegant and lively acid structure, which has a balancing and refreshing effect. Despite its enormous taste volume, it is not satiating. Outstanding length. Contrasts with the extremely mineral, rather vertical 2017, depending on the vintage.

2018er Dhroner Großer Hengelberg Riesling Qualitätswein Reserve

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 34 19 • 13,5% Alkohol

19,5

von Werner Elflein am 20. September 2019 offen verkostet

Currently still a little closed. Opens very well after a short aeration in the Ovarius decanter. Light golden yellow. Fulminant pineapple scent. Delicate smoky and fine ethereal notes from ageing in the new Stockinger barrel. On the palate with monumental, almost baroque fullness and a pineapple fruit that covers the entire mouth. At 13.5% alcohol, it is undoubtedly anything but a lightweight. Nevertheless, thanks to an invigorating acidity, there is no feeling of saturation. The Hengelberg Reserve effortlessly manages the balancing act between apparent opposites: juiciness and vital acid structure defy the creamy and voluminous opulence, tension and mineral vibration meet stoic noblesse. Fine spicy slate note. Outstanding length and sustainability. One of the really great German Rieslings. Requires several years bottle ripening.

2018er Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 32 19 • 12,0% Alkohol

15

von Werner Elflein am 16. August 2019 offen verkostet

Aged as a litre wine in a wood fudder, spontaneously fermented and for this reason alone a provocation of the mainstream. Pale grey yellow. In the nose with fine, but not primary fruit aromas and the scent of blue slate. Distinctly influenced by the wild cellar yeasts. More complexity develops in the air. Nuances of cinnamon and wild strawberries. Straight-lined on the tongue and primarily committed to minerality. Invigorating, piquant acidity, tart, spicy character. Extremely dry, yet charming and balanced. Very good length.

2018er Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 38 19 • 13,0% Alkohol

16,5

von Werner Elflein am 26. September 2019 offen verkostet

Currently still quite closed. Responds well to aeration in the Ovarius decanter. Light golden yellow. Puristic Riesling scent with a fine herb note, which is reminiscent of a well-known Swiss herb drop. In the nose, however, also with aromas of yellow and green apple as well as some apple skin. Still a bit monolithic on the palate. Juicy fruit, fine acidity, dry taste, very good length. Needs time to develop.

2018er Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 37 19 • 12,5% Alkohol

15,5

von Werner Elflein am 6. September 2019 offen verkostet

Lemon yellow. In the nose with a floral touch and the honey-spicy scent of white flowers and yellow apple. Urgently needs a few more months of time. Currently still appears a little closed on the palate, but shows promising approaches, even if fine juicy fruit and delicate acidity are currently still irreconcilable and must find each other. Good length.

2018er Piesporter Goldtröpfchen GP Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 49 19 • 12,5% Alkohol

18

von Werner Elflein am 11. Dezember 2019 offen verkostet

Greenish white gold. Fruity bouquet, reminiscent of hot slate, with aromas of peach and peach stone. In view of its powerful body (13.5% alcohol), it is surprisingly light and elegantly hovering above the tongue. Nevertheless very present, every square centimetre in the mouth is lined. Only in the “last third” with increased noticeable pressure on the palate. Delicate residual sugar. Mineral spice in the finale. Very long and persistent.

2018er Wintricher Geierslay Riesling sur lie Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 42 19 • 12,0% Alkohol

16,5

von Werner Elflein am 18. Dezember 2019 offen verkostet

Bright, sparkling straw yellow. Concentrated Riesling fragrance with fine peach aromas. On the tongue with the presence of a Spätlese. Playful, with vital acidity and aromatic density. At the same time elegant and with a spicy and penetrating fingerprint of slate on the palate. Very good length and persistence.

2018er Veldenzer Grafschafter Sonnenberg Riesling Qualitätswein Alte Reben

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 43 19 • 13,0% Alkohol

17

von Werner Elflein am 3. Dezember 2019 offen verkostet

Pale green white gold. Complex, but primarily fruity bouquet with aromas of yellow apple. Also reminiscent of a fresh compote with large apple pieces. Also notes of orange and mandarin. On the palate with a fine spicy attack, but no less marked by the fruits described above. Subtle minerality hidden behind a door. But slowly the door handle moves downwards, and quietly, dancing on tiptoe, mineral notes sneak up and vibrate in the mouth. A great substance that packs alcohol, acidity and sweetness into a delicate creamy fullness. Excellent depth, lingering for a long time.

2018er Piesporter Treppchen von den Terrassen Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 48 19 • 13,5% Alkohol

17,5

von Werner Elflein am 14. Dezember 2019 offen verkostet

Pale yellow with a white-gold core. From the glass, ripe, lush aromas of peach and peach stone rise to the nose, while a very distinct mineral component clearly indicates pure slate rock. In the mouth this duality continues conclusively. Tiny slate platelets seem to rub against the surface of the tongue. The analytical values of acidity and sugar appear completely insignificant in this context. Inevitably there is only one question: How much terroir can the human mind cope with? This is a monumental Riesling, which in its style is somewhat reminiscent of the Wachau, and where unfortunately the alcohol only stands out a little. Very good length.

2018er Wintricher Geierslay GW Riesling Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 44 19 • 13,0% Alkohol

16

von Werner Elflein am 25. Dezember 2019 offen verkostet

Bright bright yellow. Already the nose with its concentrated scent of stone fruit suggests that this is a very opulent wine. In the mouth it has a creamy mouthfeel and a mineral foundation, that is difficult to assert itself against the monumental bulwark. The alcohol stands out a little. The taste picture corresponds to an off-dry Auslese. Very long and with a powerful finish.

2018er Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett feinherb

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 21 19 • 11,0% Alkohol

16,5

von Werner Elflein am 20. August 2019 offen verkostet

After the Brauneberger Riesling, another high-class representative of the 2018 collection by Stefan Steinmetz, whom I highly rated at the first tasting in June, but who, as it now turns out, was still somewhat underestimated. However, the development over the past two and a half months clearly speaks for the wine. Lemon yellow with a white-gold hint. Fruity bouquet, marked by spontaneous fermentation and a fine peach note. On the tongue, despite all its strength and fullness – only 10% alcohol – with an elegance worthy of a Kabinett. Juicy Riesling fruit, animating play of rugged slate minerality, delicate sweetness and subtle acidity. Although all components are very well balanced, the wine has enough character and independence to stand out in its predicate category (also stylistically). In the excellent and long finish it is exceptionally powerful without losing its shape.

15

von Werner Elflein am 1. Juni 2019 offen verkostet

2018er Piesporter Grafenberg Riesling Kabinett

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 20 19 • 10,0% Alkohol

16

von Werner Elflein am 22. Oktober 2019 offen verkostet

Light white gold with a greenish touch. Mineral and slightly planty scent of grapefruit and peach. Juicy Riesling fruit with piquant acidity and a tangy spicy note. Classical Kabinett style with a very moderate sweetness. Therefore quite strong for its predicate level and rather a Spätlese from its weight class. Shows in the finale pure grapefruit aromas with the corresponding bitterness. Excellent length. Could come in this form from a much cooler year.

2018er Mülheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 19 19 • 9,0% Alkohol

16

von Werner Elflein am 30. Oktober 2019 offen verkostet

Pale yellow. Still underdeveloped and restrained bouquet with subtle aromas of peach and nectarine. Straightforward and razor-sharp, this classic Kabinett focuses on the essentials with a mouthwatering juiciness and a piquant, spicy, mature and perfectly integrated acidity. A Riesling with a great fun and animation factor that I would hardly have thought possible in the 2018 vintage. Very long and persistent.

2018er Dhroner Großer Hengelberg Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 13 19 • 8,5% Alkohol

18

von Werner Elflein am 18. September 2019 offen verkostet

Light white gold. Impressively concentrated and clearly focused berry scent. On the palate, it does not rely on the striking contrast of the acidity with sweetness, but captivates with a filigree, multi-layered, ultra-fine and enigmatic play of minerality and fruit, perfectly embedded in the creamy mouthfeel. Aromas of orange and carambola. Remarkable fullness of an Auslese, without any hint of botrytis. Excellent length.

18

von Werner Elflein am 1. Juni 2019 offen verkostet

2018er Kestener Paulinsberg Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 12 19 • 10,0% Alkohol

19

von Werner Elflein am 11. Oktober 2019 offen verkostet

Light white gold with a slight green hue. Already when uncorking, pure nectarine fragrance rises from the bottleneck into the nose with hints of peach and apricot. In the mouth the fruit spreads explosively over the tongue and on the palate. Juicy and with a (for the vintage) surprisingly expressive and perfectly balanced play of sweetness and acidity. Excellent length. A Spätlese with a high animation factor, made for several decades.

2018er Dhroner Großer Hengelberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 14 19 • 7,5% Alkohol

19,5

von Werner Elflein am 7. Oktober 2019 offen verkostet

Pure white gold. Concentrated berry scent with fine, discreetly echoing aromas of partly highly ripe, partly baked pineapple. Light as a feather on the tongue. On the palate highly elegant and with enormous density, which surprisingly comes from completely botrytis-free grapes (105° Oechsle). Outstanding balance. Delicate, subtle acidity, covered in creamy substance. Not too sweet. Breathtaking length, excellent sustainability. Not made for the present. This Auslese owns the future.

2018er Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 16 19 • 8,0% Alkohol

18,5

von Werner Elflein am 29. Oktober 2019 offen verkostet

Greenish white gold. Of opulent fruit expression, with a bouquet partly characterised by dried fruit. Predominantly ripe yellow fruits, with a tropical component in the background. On the tongue, this Auslese is by no means too sweet; in view of its long lifespan, a higher residual sugar level would perhaps even be desirable. Impresses on the palate by demanding fruity fullness and a slightly banana texture, which reminds in its expression of the hot vintages 2003 and 2005. Elegant and restrained play of ripe acidity in the finish. Excellent length and persistence. It must be mature and should show its full potential after twenty rather than ten years.

2018er Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 18 19 • 9,0% Alkohol

18

von Werner Elflein am 24. Oktober 2019 offen verkostet

Green-yellow with white-golden reflections. A fruity, not too broad bouquet of ripe orange. In the second nose finely spicy, green and herbal nuances. Opens in the mouth with a delicate creamy fullness that contrasts almost perfectly with a slightly delayed fruity play marked by fresh acidity. Not too present sweetness. Moderately echoing botrytis in the very long finish. Great persistence.

2018er Kestener Paulinsberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 17 19 • 8,0% Alkohol

17,5

von Werner Elflein am 1. November 2019 offen verkostet

Light green-yellow. Spontaneously spicy bouquet with complex fruit aromas that make it difficult to give exact names. Karambole is most appropriate when the acidity of the fruit is disregarded. A sweet component is reminiscent of apricot jelly. Juicy on the palate, with good acidity and surprisingly moderate sweetness. Partly with slightly blurred contours. The spice aromas and phenols are still searching for their fixed place. Among this year's Rieslings by Stefan Steinmetz with predicate Auslese, this one is probably the least developed. Reminiscent of a television thriller whose plot takes a surprising turn several times. An Auslese that real wine freaks might say much more than the mainstream drinker due to its profound complexity. Outstanding length and sustainability.

2018er Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 15 19 • 8,0% Alkohol

19

von Werner Elflein am 24. September 2019 offen verkostet

Brilliant bright white gold. Winemaking legend Hans Günter Schwarz, who always propagated the clear fruit of the grape in the wine, would have his true pleasure in this very fine, precise berry scent. On the tongue with pure elegance. Extremely filigree and with a great balance. Delicate creaminess on the palate, subtle acidity, perfectly balanced sweetness, excellent depth and length.

2016er Mülheimer Sonnenlay Pinot noir Qualitätswein

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 4 18 • 12,5% Alkohol

18,5

von Werner Elflein am 10. Dezember 2019 offen verkostet

Transparent, brightening garnet red with discrete turbidity. Fresh, animating nose with a focused scent of sour cherry. Ripe but not overly ripe fruit. Characterised by tension, elegance and finesse. Even in this very dense Pinot noir by Stefan Steinmetz, the use of wooden barrels by Romanée-Conti is noticeable, but the grainy tannins are already quite harmonious and even a touch of dark chocolate can be tasted in the finish. Excellent length and depth. Spicy aftertaste. An investment for at least twenty years. Should definitely mature on the bottle for another ten years.

18,5

von Werner Elflein am 1. Juni 2019 offen verkostet

Steinmetz & Hermann

Germany

2018er Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Qualitätswein Alte Reben

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 40 19 • 13,5% Alkohol

17,5

von Werner Elflein am 12. Dezember 2019 offen verkostet

Straw yellow. Mineral, concentrated scent of highly ripe yellow-fleshed fruits. Powerful Riesling with a distinctly perceptible, slightly warming alcohol. Filigree acidity on the tongue, salty minerality, harmonious, well balanced residual sugar, outstanding length, great persistence.

2016er Pinot noir Qualitätswein *** trocken

Germany ↳ Mosel (ehem. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

A. P.-Nr. 2577121 13 18 • 12,0% Alkohol

18

von Werner Elflein am 1. Dezember 2019 offen verkostet

Dark garnet red with medium transparency. In the nose with cool Pinot fruit and a hint of sour cherry. On the palate again, and this time more clearly, sour cherry, combined with an enormous, ethereal echoing spice. Great freshness, partly crumbly, sandy, partly fine-grained tannins. Excellent length, very persistent. Needs time.

18,5

von Werner Elflein am 1. Juni 2019 offen verkostet